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GE Electric Range Oven works intermittently. When anything works, everything works. When anything does not work, nothing works (turns on). When nothing works, the clock display does not light up. It just decides to work or not, intermittently. Clearly, the problem is not power or a fuse, since nothing is different in that regard between when it works and it doesn't work. Various web sites indicate that for the oven not turning on, the solution is to replace the Oven Control Board or the Oven Sensor. However, I do not find any recommendation to replace the Oven Control Board when NONE of the cooktop burners are working, from which I conclude that the Oven Control Board has nothing to do with the cooktop burners. And, clearly the Oven Sensor could not affect the cooktop burners, and would not result in the clock display not lighting up. So, I am confused. What common component is there in this thing that would affect BOTH the cooktop burners and the oven?
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Here are your parts Parts for GE JB690DN1BB Range - AppliancePartsPros.comI do not have access to a wiring diagram so I am assuming this unit is wired like a standard unit. [COLOR="Blue"]Clearly, the problem is not power or a fuse, since nothing is different in that regard between when it works and it doesn't work.[/COLOR] I am not sure how you came to this conclusion. My conclusion would have been that it is a power/wiring problem. To isolate it to either the house wiring or the unit you have to catch it when it is not working and then measure the voltage at the terminal strip in the unit. So the stove will have to be pulled away from the wall. May be a big pain if it is very intermittent. On most units it is the L1 (black) side of the line that provides power to the control board. Check the power at the terminal strip. L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. [COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR] If the power here is OK then the problem is in the unit. Check that all the wires from the unit at the terminal strip are OK and tight. If the power is bad then the problem is not in the unit. The most likely culprit is the proer cord but coul also be the wall receptacle. The least likely would be the actual house wiring back to the circuit breaker aor in the breaker box itself (unlikely but still possible) [COLOR="Blue"]from which I conclude that the Oven Control Board has nothing to do with the cooktop burners.[/COLOR] Correct [COLOR="Blue"]What common component is there in this thing that would affect BOTH the cooktop burners and the oven?[/COLOR] Just the wiring at the terminal strip. Though I would remove the back of the unit and check that the wires look OK. |
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Thanks for the response with useful suggestions. The problem turned out to be the power cord itself. Perhaps during installation it was bent, fraying one of the conductors, and then perhaps a power surge melted some of what was left. Or maybe the installer substituted a bad (longer) cable [what was there did not look like original equipment]. Regardless, when the range was pulled out, not working, just lifting the cable caused the panel lights to come on. Lifted: on; sagging: off. Initially, I figured there was a loose connection inside, but that was clearly not the case upon inspection, so I held the cable up with wire ties, turned everything on, and waited. Result: burning insulation smell. Running my hand over the power cord revealed a very hot spot. That explains the smell that was observed before, but could never be pinpointed. I cut the cord shorter, cutting out the spot with the short (or whatever), and took it to Home Depot to get a matching plug. Attaching the new plug on the remaining (still plenty long) cord solved the problem. This is not the first time I've had a break or short in the power cord on some device, but it's the first time I've had something like this on a really thick power cord. I have not cut the cord open at the hotspot to see what the problem was yet, but I will vise it, find a better knife to cut it open safely, and report what I find.
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You are welcome.
And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause. |
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The strands in one of the two main conductors were frayed and had mostly separated (or pulled away from each other on either side of the hotspot), with evidence of melting (beads). It's a wonder it even worked. In the bright light of the workshop, the exterior of the power cord at that point showed evidence of compression (like maybe it was clamped, or previously bent completely when stored). I suspect that the installer replaced the power cord that came with the (new) unit for some reason. It was installed as part of a kitchen remodel, and the current location of the unit is about 2 feet away from where the old range was located. Maybe he didn't think the cord would reach, or didn't want to even try to install it. Go figure. I wish I had examined the rest of the power cord better before I cut it and put on a new plug. But it's working fine, now, so I'm going to leave well enough alone. At least there are no more hotspots, and the power cord that remains appears to have no abrasions or scraping or indentations on the outside anywhere.
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