Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/26/2014(UTC)
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Hello I have looked at other posts that solve my problem and none of the solutions seem to be what would work.
First I have the Whirlpool LER5636EQ3 electric dryer.
The problem right now is that the dryer turns on, spins, and blows air outside but will not turn on the heating element. There is not a blockage in the vents and I have tested the continuity of my heat element(which I bought one to replace which didn't help), the thermal cutoff, high limit thermostat, thermal fuse, and the cycling thermostat and as far as I can tell they all have continuity.
I am no expert with a multimeter and the one I have doesn't beep to tell me if I have continuity so I may very well be reading it wrong. When I touch the leads to the various parts instead of " 1 " that shows while the leads are touching nothing I will get between 1.5 and 2 on all parts but the element which reads just over 11 on both the new one and old one. I read that the resistance should be as low as possible, but I don't know if those numbers are good for continuity.
Can any of those parts need replacing even if they have good continuity?
Also, on a side note which I don't know if it could be my problem, but the timer runs when set in a run state and the door is closed even if the dryer is off. Can the timer cause the heat element not to come on?
Are there any other sensors or anything that are not on the back of the unit that could be affecting the heat element coming on?
Thank you for any help or direction you can give me.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
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First, try resetting the AC panel breaker for the dryer. The L2 leg can trip without tripping the whole thing and prevent the heat from working. It is normal for the timer to run with door closed and dryer off when timer is in timed dry cycle. Normally, you should read 0 (zero) ohms across the thermal cutoff, operating thermostat and hi limit thermostat. Your reading of 1.5 to 2 ohms could indicate a problem but could just be because your not getting the best contact between meter probe and the device your testing or it's a cheap meter. What does it read when you short the meter probes together? The reading you got for the heater coil is normal. If resetting the breaker did not fix the problem, you should check at the back of the dryer at the power cord connection block to make sure you have 240vac into the dryer. Be careful there, 240vac can be lethal if you come into contact with it. Power to the heat coil does go through one set of timer contacts so that is a possibility as well if your getting 240vac to the dryer.
Eric
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