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krepk  
#1 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2014 8:01:51 AM(UTC)
krepk

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I'm going to attempt replacing the cooling fan. How complex is this process?

I've already replaced the thermal fuse in the back, and the oven is working again (after the self-cleaning popped that fuse). The oven works fine now but I'm pretty sure the cooling fan isn't working and that would explain why it overheated during self-clean this time, right? Does the cooling fan have to be replaced?

(And yes, I've learned to never use the self-cleaning feature again.)
Thanks, for any advice.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, August 5, 2014 2:33:19 AM(UTC)
denman

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I cannot find info on the given model number.
please check it.\Find your model number - AppliancePartsPros.com

Are you sure it is not KEBC177KWH03 as there is info on this number.
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krepk  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, August 5, 2014 3:44:47 AM(UTC)
krepk

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You are correct, it is KEBC177KWH03. Thanks, and can I check if it's even working while the oven is running?
denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, August 6, 2014 1:02:29 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool KEBC177KWH03 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.com

Clicking on a part's description or picture will open a new page with info about that part which may be useful to you.

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Below is a manual which should also be useful.
You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download the manual.
http://appliancejunk.com...wnloads;sa=view;down=166

I do not see a diagnostic for this unit that forces the fan on.
I am not sure if the fan is on when ever the oven is on or only comes on once the oven reaches a certain temperature.

Since it is not coming on I would remove power from the unit and then check it's resistance.
If it measures OK that does not mean that is OK as it may have mechanical problems.
Then to check it you will have to hook it up to 115 volts to see if it will run.

Doing a live check is often difficult on built in ovens.
If you decide to do this be very very careful as 240 volts is lethal.
The4 live check would be to check the power across the blower. If it is 120 volts and the fan does not run then the fan is toast.

If there is no power to it odds are that the control board is bad.
But I would also check the wires to it in case on of them is bad.
File Attachment(s):
KEBC177.pdf (314kb) downloaded 18 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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