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The dryer won't run unless I keep the start button pushed in. However, even with the start button pushed in, the dryer produces no heat. I replaced the thermal fuse, but it didn't solve either problem. What should I check next? Thank you.
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Thank you, Eric. Can I test the motor relay and heat relay with a multimeter? Or is it better to replace them outright?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I didn't mean for you to replace them, just swap them. They are both the same. Note the wiring color code, disconnect the wiring and swap one for the other.
Eric
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I swapped the relays. Same problems -- dryer won't stay on and won't heat. I had replaced the motor relay about a year ago. I was hoping a bad heat relay was causing the problem this time, but I guess not.
The dryer probably isn't worth a $170 control board. Is there anything else I can try? Thank you.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Closely inspect the even heat control board. Sometimes when they fail, it is obvious as there is a burnt component and darkening/browning on a portion of the board. If it looks good, it could still be bad but there is the remote chance that both relays are bad. Unplug dryer and disconnect the two pink/black wires from the motor relay and check resistance across those terminals on the relay. This is the relay coil and should read around 2-3 k-ohms. If good, plug dryer back in and check the DC voltage across the two pink/black wires when you press the start button for normal operation. Voltage should be 48VDC. If you don't get 48VDC then the board is bad. Same tests for the heat relay, wire colors for relay coil are red/white.
Eric
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I'll give it a shot. Thank you, Eric. You've been extremely helpful.
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The R2 resister on the electronic control assembly looks burnt. I tested the motor relay anyway. I got 3k ohms between the pink/black terminals.
I got no reading when I tested the pink/black wires with the start button pushed in. However, I'm not sure I was testing the wires correctly. I'm a moron with a multimeter. To test VDC, do I put the positive probe on the pink/black wire terminal and the negative probe on the relay terminal?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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That's the common failure part, R2, on these boards. Your not alone. Every time we see an "Even Heat" dryer, we pretty much know it's the board or one of the relays. High failure items on these dryers. You should check the DC voltage across the wires.
Eric
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Yep, it was the control board. I replaced it, and now the dryer stays on and heats. Thank you for the advice, Eric. You saved me hundreds of dollars.
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