I usually don't believe in "coincidences" or simultaneous double-problems, so it seems possible that something about the board replacement didn't go right, in some way.
In any case, it would be good to check that you 1) have power to the ice-maker unit, and then 2) manually force a harvest.
If you "jumped" the ice-maker water-fill valve via the test points on the ice-maker (by jumpering between the N and V test points), and this resulted in water flow into the ice-maker, then it also indicates that there is power being provided to the ice-maker (which can also be verified by measuring the voltage between the L and N points, which should show AC line voltage (115 Vac, or thereabouts). (Note, you might have to tape down the "door open" switch to have power to your ice-maker - not sure if this is model-dependent or not.) If you saw water coming into the ice-maker, then it also rules out a frozen or blocked water line.
Do you have the kind of Whirlpool ice-maker that has the optical/LED indicator in the switch that detects the freezer door is open? My old refrigerator had this, but my current one doesn't, so I am going by memory a bit, but there are plenty of posts here on what to look for in terms of what to look for (looking for LED pulses, etc.). Search for "Whirlpool ice-maker optics diagnostic".
You may also want to manually induce an ice-harvest cycle, which is done by jumpering the T and H test points together. (Again, the door-open switch might need to be taped down.) Once the ice-maker mechanism starts moving (assuming it does), remove the jumper. You may or may not get a water fill at the end of the cycle. If the manual method doesn't produce a cycle at all, then the ice-maker assembly is probably bad. But at the same time, if you never get an automatic ice-harvest, but the forced harvest seems to work, it can also indicate a bad ice-maker assembly (in this case, a likely culprit is the thermostat inside of the ice-maker sub-assembly, that is not letting the automatic harvest start). But the cost of a new ice-maker sub-assembly isn't much higher than getting just the thermostat, and it is also a bit less work to replace the whole ice-maker. I think that a bad thermostat was the problem that I recently had with my ice-maker. I was getting no automatic harvest (and hence no water into the ice-maker at the end of a harvest). The water fill could be manually generated by jumpering, and jumpering the H and T leads started a harvest. In my case, the ice-maker kept rotating, multiple times, without ever triggering a water-fill. To stop it, I had to cut power to the refrigerator. This seemed a bit weird to me, but in the end the problem was fixed by replacing the ice-maker assembly.
There are also plenty of videos showing the replacement of different vintages of Whirlpool ice-makers, dependent on age, refrigerator configuration (side-by side versus french door, or whatever), as well as ice-maker part number.
