Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Parts for Frigidaire FLEB8200DS0 Washer Dryer Combo - AppliancePartsPros.comBelow is a link to a service manual.
I think it includes info on your unit.
You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download the manual.
http://appliancejunk.com...wnloads;sa=view;down=427The items you list 1 to 7 seem to all use the plug and chug method for appliance repair. definitely not the way to troubleshoot a problem. Also it can cost you a small fortune in parts.
I cannot say if you should get in a service tech as it depends on how handy you are and what tools/knowledge you have.
[COLOR="Blue"]1. should i just buy all three parts from here and replace them all?
http://www.********************.com/...=118850&PID=19[/COLOR]
I would not as you could replace all three and still have the problem.
[COLOR="Blue"]2. is there anything that is very different from a normal dryer and drum removal versus my dryer/washer unit?[/COLOR]
It is basically the same. as other units which use a rear center drum bearing for the drum support.
[COLOR="Blue"]3. it also squeaks while turning... any idea what that might be?[/COLOR]
Usually this is the rear drum support bearing (item 32 in section 03).
Usually it just needs cleaning and re-greasing but sometimes it has to be replaced as it may be worn. Be sure to use a high temperature grease on it.
Also when removing the drum be careful with the little ball bearing (item 5 in section 03). It likes to jump out and then play hide and seek.
Note the squeaks may also be other things like the motor, the idler, the front glides etc.
Now for your problem.
First you have to check that the unit is getting the correct voltage.
The motor and timer run off of half the line but the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
If the voltage is OK then unplug the unit.
Check the heater with a meter. It should be around 12 ohms.
Check the hi-limit thermostat (item 33 in section 03), it should be 0 ohms.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
