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Parts for Whirlpool CEDS832VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for your wiring diagram.

Most likely a grounded element or a timer problem.

Unplug the unit and both wires at the heating element.
Measure across the heating element, should be 8 to 12 ohms.
Then measure from each side of the heating element to it's case, both should be infinite ohms.
If not then the element is grounded and should be replaced.

If the heater is OK.
Unplug the unit and set the timer to air only.
At the timer measure contacts B to A, it should be infinite ohms (open).
Also applies to C to A, see the timing chart.

Now I am stumped.

Did this unit ever run OK for you?

I can give you the circuit path for the heater element but am stumped as to why your heating element is always on.
L1 to C at the timer.
C to B at the timer.
B to A at the timer.
[COLOR="Red"]So if B to A (C to A) is open then the heater should not get any voltage.
[/COLOR]
A to the thermal cut-off, to the operating thermostat, to the hi-limit thermostat, to one side of the heating element.
Thru the heating element .
[COLOR="Red"]If the element is grounded it can get 120 volts on it (either L1 or L2 to ground/Neutral) and this then can by-pass the timer contacts and keep the element on.[/COLOR]
To one side of the centrifugal switch then through the switch which closes when the motor is close to operating speed.
To L2.

This is then the circuit for the heating element which runs off of 240 volts.

Something weird is going on here!!!

Note that I am off to the cottage for the weekend and will not be available till Monday at the earliest.

Found the problem...when the heating element was out it checked fine, but the problem was when it was placed back into compartment, it was grounding out against back of dryer. I pushed the metal back in a bit to give more clearance and that solved the problem. Thank you for your help.