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This is on a side by side refrigerator with freezer on bottom. The other day the refrigerator quit cooling. When I investigated I found that the freezer had iced up and it appeared as though the ice had stopped the evaporator fan. I thawed it with a hair dryer and when I started it back up the fan operated. I thought I had solved the problem (though still concerned about what caused the ice in the first place, figured I'd deal with later) but noticed a few minutes later the fan had stopped again. I didn't think it was long enough to have frozen again but I blew it with a hair dryer and it began running again. This went on for a few times and then I quit with that. Bought a cheap used fridge that day to put things in and when I returned home the frigidaire was cool but the fan was not operating again. So apparently some time during the day it ran enough to cool it down and stopped again. I haven't run it since. I took the evap motor out and tested it. It's all sealed with four wires going into it (red, blue, yellow and brown) so I wasn't sure how to test for continuity but I got zero ohms on every which way I put the probes in so I assume that was OK. (I've also attached a picture of it). I also tested the power to the motor and once again, wasn't sure which wires to test but I got about 26-27 volts across I believe the red and blue and red and yellow. Any ideas? I was initially just going to buy a new evap fan motor but now I'm wondering if it's another issue. Thanks. Mkorns attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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You probably have a bad control board in this, should put a square wave to the motor, not dc level.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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You should also replace the evaporator fan motor. Look at web site ...applianceaid.. for forced defrost proceedure
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/2/2013(UTC) Posts: 5
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Can you elaborate what a square wave means? Is that how I'd test the control board?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/2/2013(UTC) Posts: 5
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My initial reaction was just to replace it but I was hoping to test it first to see if it was bad. When I get zero ohms across all terminals made me wonder if it was bad or not. That's why I was looking for guidance on how to test this type of motor. Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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The motor is probably a six pole induction motor and you will get low resistance readings.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/2/2013(UTC) Posts: 5
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I replaced the evap fan motor and that wasn't the problem. Didn't think it was but figured I'd try. Interestingly the fridge ran fine for two days and then suddenly quit cooling again. I've heard that it could be a defrost issue but I'm doubtful about that because I immediately checked the coils and they looked ok. I attached a picture of them. Does anyone have any other ideas why it would cool for awhile and then suddenly stop? Mkorns attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/2/2013(UTC) Posts: 5
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I returned the evaporator fan motor (which is nice that you can do easily do that) and bought a new refrigerator!
I'd still like to repair this to either sell it or give to one of my children. My next thought would be to replace the control board. Does that make sense?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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That was my initial recommendation, replace the board.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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That was my initial recommendation, replace the board. However, you still don't know if the evaporator motor is good or bad.
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