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pacdave  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, May 7, 2014 6:40:52 PM(UTC)
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pacdave

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Joined: 5/7/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3

I have a Whirlpool Cabrio Washer, Model WTW6800WW1. My wife was washing clothes over the weekend, the washer stopped draining and produced an error code F32. I checked the pump from the bottom and saw that there were coins in the lint filter. The penny was the perfect size to block the outlet to the pump. When I tried to remove the basket, it was seized to the drive shaft. I had to remove the rotor and stator to remove the drive shaft nut. I then had to remove the basket and shaft together. After getting the shaft out of the basket, I noticed rust on the shaft. It cleaned up well and the bearings were in good shape. I removed the coins from the lint filter and reassembled (after lubing the shaft). The basket now comes out easily.

I ran the automatic test mode. I received no new codes except for the stored F32. Now the basket will not spin. The basket will not spin at indicator C0 but the pump works. The washer filled with water BUT would not stop filling until I received an oL error. It seems that I fixed the pump problem but somehow caused two new problems; the motor will not spin and the pump will not stop filling the basket. Could these problems be related?

I ran the automatic test again and as the water was filling, I unplugged the machine… the pump stopped filling. The water inlet valve should be good.

I ran a manual test of the pump to remove the water, a test of the lid switch (checked good), Rotor Position Sensor (checked bad - no lights) and Spin (checked bad - no spin, just humming). This sent me to Test #3, Motor Circuit.

I ran through Test #3, Motor Circuit.

- Basket turns freely

- P5 and P10 connectors visually checked good

- P5 connector ohm checked good
-- Pins 1-2 - 32.5Ω (range 31Ω +/- 5Ω)
-- Pins 1-3 - 32.4Ω (range 31Ω +/- 5Ω)

- P10 connector ohm checked low
-- Pins 6-5 - 1.1kΩ (range 1.5kΩ +/- 100Ω)
-- Pins 6-4 - 1.1kΩ (range 1.5kΩ +/- 100Ω)
-- Pins 6-3 - 1.1kΩ (range 1.5kΩ +/- 100Ω)
-- Pins 1-7 - 2.53kΩ (range 600Ω - 21.2kΩ)
--- With the first three pin sets reading 300Ω low, troubleshooting sent me to the following steps.

- Motor and Rotor Position Sensor connectors visually checked good

- Continuity checked good at all pins between P10 machine motor control connector and the motor rotor position sensor connector

- Continuity checked good across stator windings

- Continuity checked good at all pins between P5 machine motor/control connector and the motor rotor position sensor connector

At this point, it’s telling me to replace the drive motor. I assume this means the rotor assembly and the stator assembly? I’m a bit confused. The machine was working fine except for the pump. I had to disassemble the motor to get the shaft out but other than that, it should be fine. Is there a way to test just the rotor position sensor?

When I ran the manual motor test, I saw the basket bump but it didn’t turn. It only makes a hum. The rotor is very basic and there’s no visual indication that its bad. The windings of the stator continuity checked good, there is no visual damage to the windings and no corrosion. So it “appears” the stator is good. The only thing I haven’t checked is the rotor position sensor and I have no readings to check it against.

Once it’s determined the motor and harness is good, it points to the RPS board (rotor position sensor?).

If the motor, lower harness and RPS is good, it points to the machine/motor control assembly.

What's throwing me a curve is the pump not shutting off the water. The basket is supposed to float and shut off the valve. Could this somehow be tied to the "no spin" condition? Could this related to the shaft that froze to the basket. I'm bewildered. I don't want to start ordering expensive parts that may or may not fix my problem.

Any advice or assistance anyone can give is greatly appreciated! Thank you!

David
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pacdave  
#2 Posted : Thursday, May 8, 2014 6:27:18 PM(UTC)
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pacdave

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UPDATE: I went back over everything today. I don't know how I missed it but there's two cracks in the stator hub. I'm not sure if it'll solve my problem but I ordered a replacement. I'll update once it's installed.
Dandur805  
#3 Posted : Sunday, March 1, 2015 11:05:25 PM(UTC)
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Dandur805

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Posts: 8

Originally Posted by: pacdave Go to Quoted Post
UPDATE: I went back over everything today. I don't know how I missed it but there's two cracks in the stator hub. I'm not sure if it'll solve my problem but I ordered a replacement. I'll update once it's installed.

Well, Dave.....did the stator hub fix the problem ??
pacdave  
#4 Posted : Monday, March 2, 2015 9:01:46 AM(UTC)
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pacdave

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Sure did. Washer has been running great!
Dandur805  
#5 Posted : Monday, March 2, 2015 12:38:03 PM(UTC)
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Dandur805

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Joined: 3/1/2015(UTC)
Posts: 8

I have now removed everything except the brain and still have Code 70. Then, when I went to turn it back on and connected the water hose, the faucet handle disintegrated in my hand....................... Yeah, no one has a handle, so I bought a new faucet......but have to cut them off as they are 3/4 inch valves on a 1/2 inch copper tube. Gotta love modern conveniences.......actually there is a creek nearby where the wife can do laundry. I am tired. Thanks for posting the final results though.
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