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Paul_illinois  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, February 19, 2014 7:40:06 AM(UTC)
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Paul_illinois

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Howdy gents!

I searched the forum and didn't see this question, so here it goes...

I'm a do-it-yourself'er who has worked on several appliances, and oftentimes the control panel operates at low voltage (eg., 12 Vdc).

Question: on my 1990's non-electronic Whirlpool QuietWash, can I expect to find only line voltage in the contol panel?

I'll try to attach a photo of the schematic that was glued to the door panel. (Forum limits image size to 600x800, so I can zoom-in on request.)

As you might surmise, I'm going somewhere with this question...
Paul_illinois attached the following image(s):
dishwasher_schem_BW.jpg
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, February 19, 2014 11:17:09 PM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]Question: on my 1990's non-electronic Whirlpool QuietWash, can I expect to find only line voltage in the contol panel?[/COLOR]

Yes, everything runs off of 120 volts.
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Paul_illinois  
#3 Posted : Thursday, February 20, 2014 10:41:13 AM(UTC)
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Paul_illinois

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thanks for confirming that. now for a follow-on question.

My old dishwasher has the common symptom of getting stuck in the wash cycle, the timer stalled waiting forever for the thermo-hold signal (heating element is fine).

Are my assumptions here correct: if my cycling thermostat is bad (stuck open), then that has two effects on the normal wash cycle:
1. heating element is never notified that water has achieved operating temperature. Therefore, element remains on and water gets hotter than necessary.
2. timer remains stuck in wash cycle, waiting forever for the thermo-hold signal to announce that water has achieved operating temperature.
denman  
#4 Posted : Friday, February 21, 2014 2:26:40 AM(UTC)
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Yes, I agree with your conclusions.
One other symptom would be that the Water Heating indicator would stay on.

To check this you could unplug the unit and short together the wires for the cycling thermostat. Just be sure they cannot short to anything else.
Then restore power and run a cycle if it runs OK then you know it is the cycling thermostat.
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Paul_illinois  
#5 Posted : Friday, February 21, 2014 12:38:09 PM(UTC)
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Paul_illinois

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"Great minds think alike!"

I've been wondering if I can short them together as a permanent solution. Since I only use the "normal" wash cycle (with air-dry), the timer wouldn't seem to mind, because the thermo-hold function only activates during the 14 minute main wash cycle (see timing diagram on first attachment above). According to that schematic, shorting the thermostat wouldn't affect anything else.

My other idea was: instead of shorting those two wires, jumper them to a front panel pushbutton that I don't use (like "heavy wash"). That way, when the wash cycle starts, I can push the "heavy wash" button and the timer will think it is receiving the a-okay signal from the thermostat. I use the dishwasher less than once/week and I live alone, so it's not a big deal.

Attached is a pic I took by sticking my camera under the dishwasher.
Paul_illinois attached the following image(s):
dishwasher_thermos.jpg
denman  
#6 Posted : Saturday, February 22, 2014 7:14:35 AM(UTC)
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denman

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I would just short across the cycling thermostat.

Note that this may effect your washing quality as the water will be colder than the manufacturers spec.

Replacing the thermostat would be a better solution.
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Paul_illinois  
#7 Posted : Saturday, February 22, 2014 8:08:24 AM(UTC)
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Paul_illinois

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
I would just short across the cycling thermostat. Note that this may effect your washing quality as the water will be colder than the manufacturers spec.

right, and that wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. I just thought that I could 'have my cake and eat it too' - fool the timer and turn the heating element on (although, the element would be in an always-on state, which might overheat the water).


Quote:
Replacing the thermostat would be a better solution.

definitely! I'm just trying to avoid pulling the dishwasher out of the counter and then having to redo copper plumbing that's been sitting pretty for 20+ years. (I'm an electrical guy not a plumbing guy, so the only copper that I'm comfortable with are wires!)

From the photo above, does it look like the center screw on the grounding plate is the only thing that holds the thermostats against the tub? If so, then I am willing to attempt a thermostat replacement by reaching under the dishwasher. (Sorry for the poor image - I took several pics and that was the best one!)
festeraddams  
#8 Posted : Saturday, February 22, 2014 7:16:59 PM(UTC)
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Should just be 1 screw, did you try to test to see if the cycling stat was bad? Did you get the heater to work? Does it have enough water flow? Enough Water?
Paul_illinois  
#9 Posted : Sunday, February 23, 2014 5:25:16 PM(UTC)
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Paul_illinois

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on this old 1990's Whirlpool, do the thermostats penetrate the tub or pump housing, to contact the water directly? Or, are they isolated from the water, and merely sense the temperature indirectly?

If it's the first case - that they contact the water directly - then I am hesitant to attempt a removal & replacement, because I'm concerned that I won't be able to replace them properly for 100% water seal.
festeraddams  
#10 Posted : Monday, February 24, 2014 4:43:41 PM(UTC)
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festeraddams

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They just sit on the outside of the tub, no seals....
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