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The dryer does not have a removable back panel. It appears that the back and sides are all one piece. The front does not look simple to remove. There are no external screws on the front panel. The top comes off pretty easily, but does not give access down to the heater/duct area where I believe the fuse is located. This is a very poor design. I'll be sure that my next dryer has a removable back panel and is easier to diagnose and service for a novice. The dryer will not run, but has power as evidenced by the door light. The door switch is fine. The timer/push to start unit is too complicated for me and too expensive to replace on a 2006 dryer. That left the thermal fuse as the last thing to check before this unit goes out the door. Thanks for an insight on internal access. Every video shows dryers that have nice, accessible cabinets with components that pop in and out. Mine is a real fortress.
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You can check the thermal fuse by opening the control panel and checking resistance between timer M terminal and GY terminal. If fuse is good, you will read through motor run winding which should only be a couple ohms. If you read open, the fuse is likely bad. With dryer top panel opened, you should see two screws holding front panel. Remove them and then lift front panel off being careful about drum falling out and door switch wiring.
Eric
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Eric, I didn't think to check the fuse from up top wire access. I will try to figure that out. Also, if all else fails, thanks for the clue on the front panel. I saw those two screws but didn't know if there were more below. Thanks.
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Rank: Member
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Eric
Thanks for the info on taking the front panel off. After fiddling around and testing wires, I was somewhat confident that it was the fuse. I confirmed with a quick test after temporarily joining the fuse wiring after it was removed (and hooking the door switch back in). I see some suggest replacing the other fuse (high limit) at the same time. Would you think this wise? Now that I know how to access these fuses ( can just barely reach back there with the front removed), I'm not so worried about having to go back in if the other fuse goes in the future.
Darrell
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The other two devices are the hi-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat. If the timer is advancing normally in auto-dry setting, then I wouldn't worry about replacing either of them. Your dryer does not have a thermal cutoff/fuse in the heater circuit. In dryers that do, it is recommended that if the fuse has blown, you should replace both the fuse and hi-limit thermostat. Your thermal fuse is in the motor circuit.
Eric
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the follow up. I have ordered the thermal fuse and look forward to getting everything back together. I appreciate your helpful advice and timely replies. I'm sure that you have saved a lot of appliances from the junkyard.
Darrell
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