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IQpierce  
#1 Posted : Thursday, January 2, 2014 3:36:02 PM(UTC)
IQpierce

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/2/2014(UTC)
Posts: 2

This Kenmore gas oven came with the house I purchased in 2010; I'm not sure how old it is.

A couple of months ago the oven failed to heat, though the gas range was working fine. I took it apart, put it back together, flipped some breakers, and everything worked fine.

Last week the same thing happened. Flipping the breakers fixed nothing. I noticed the igniter wasn't heating at all. Finding advice on forums like this one, I purchased a voltmeter, removed the igniter, and tested it for continuity, and it appeared to fail.

Today I my new igniter came in the mail; I joined the wires, hooked it up, and everything is still broken... igniter is still not warming or glowing.

When I re-wired the igniter, I wasn't sure which wire on the igniter should go to which source... does it matter? I detached it and tried it both ways but saw no difference.

When I turn on the oven, I still hear a quiet "click" one second later.

I got a "non-contact AC voltage detector" with my voltmeter, and I just tried using it on the 4 relevant contact points: the two that (I think) connect to the gas safety valve (just beneath the igniter); and the two that (I think) connect to the control board (at the back-left of the oven bottom).

- When I'm not running the oven, no voltage is detected on any of these contacts.
- When I'm running the oven, the two control board connections both report current...
- BUT when I'm running the oven, only ONE of the two connections to the gas safety valve have current: the one on the left. The one of the right reports no current.

Doesn't this mean that current isn't flowing through my igniter?

I could really use some help or advice. Do I need to replace my oven safety valve? I'm not even 100% sure that's the part I'm looking at, I'm feeling all this out as I go. Thanks in advance for your help!
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IQpierce  
#2 Posted : Friday, January 3, 2014 10:46:01 AM(UTC)
IQpierce

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/2/2014(UTC)
Posts: 2

FWIW:

I connected the power leads to the igniter bypassing the oven safety valve, and the igniter heated up just fine. I then tested the oven safety valve itself for continuity and it failed. I've ordered a new oven safety valve, it seems pretty clear that's the culprit.

I'm thinking I must have shorted something out at some point since the igniter was also definitely reporting no continuity... or maybe it's bad luck that both parts needed replacement at the same time.
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