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MK1888  
#1 Posted : Monday, October 21, 2013 1:51:03 PM(UTC)
MK1888

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I have a Kenmore Elite that runs hot on the low setting. I've actually had this problem since I bought it new 8 years ago, but being a guy I didn't really care. But lately it has caused problem by shrinking things that I didn't want shrunken. Anyway...

Both the thermal fuse and the thermostat check out fine. I tested the thermostat by putting it in a pan of hot water. It switches at around 160F. This thermostat also has a small heater in it. Is there a test for the heating element?

After that I guess it would be a control board issue.

Mike
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HumboldtRepairMan  
#2 Posted : Monday, October 21, 2013 4:31:32 PM(UTC)
HumboldtRepairMan

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Just do a continuity test on your heat element it's one thing where it works or doesn't but that doesn't matter when it comes to heat. Clear your ducting coming out of the house and vacuum out the unit from lint completely in the ducting area's my advice for temperature control is to replace the thermistor or high low thermostat those are typically what control the degrees in which your unit is running. Here's a helpful video.
Whirlpool Kenmore Electric Dryer No heat trouble shoot - YouTube
Dryer Troubleshooting - Not Drying or Taking a Long Time to Dry - YouTube
MK1888  
#3 Posted : Monday, October 21, 2013 5:13:16 PM(UTC)
MK1888

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Hey, thanks for replying.

The ducting is clear. I went through the parts diagram from Sears, I didn't see a thermistor. And I can't find the high/low thermostat...Unless that was what I already tested? The parts diagram shows an "internal bias operating thermostat", which is what I tested to be fine and a "thermostat", which I can't seem to find inside the machine.
HumboldtRepairMan  
#4 Posted : Monday, October 21, 2013 5:44:53 PM(UTC)
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It's a cycling thermostat it's right next to the thermal fuse........one set prongs should read 0.00 ohms and the other prongs on it should read roughly around 7k at room temperature if i'm not mistaken that negates the temperature range on the unit. 170-210F is around normal high limit for a gas dryer but if it's running too hot it should be blowing the thermal fuse if that's the case which is odd why your unit isn't blowing it. You may also have a sticking valve coil which is allowing the unit to release more gas before shutting off. Also there's thermal cutoffs on your burn chamber that should be blowing also if the unit is running too hot.
MK1888  
#5 Posted : Monday, October 21, 2013 6:24:48 PM(UTC)
MK1888

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Yeah, the cycling thermostat is what I already tested. It's fine.

It doesn't blow the thermal fuse, because it's not actually running too hot. It's running too hot for the LOW setting. When I put it on LOW, it acts like it's set on HIGH.

I guess the next to check is if the heater inside that cycling thermostat is getting switched on.
HumboldtRepairMan  
#6 Posted : Monday, October 21, 2013 6:27:32 PM(UTC)
HumboldtRepairMan

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i'd check or replace the switch to be honest from what you're saying. The heat element wouldn't be the issue it's an on/off thing and the hi low & temp switch control when it shuts on and off in the older models.
MK1888  
#7 Posted : Monday, October 21, 2013 6:51:49 PM(UTC)
MK1888

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What switch? If you're talking about the switch inside the cycling thermostat...well, I already tested it. Like I said, it's fine.

I'm pretty sure the heating element inside the cycling thermostat could indeed be an issue. From what I've read that is how the LOW temp setting works. The heating element comes on to trick the thermostat into thinking it's hotter than it is. So it turns off the gas heat sooner, resulting in a lower dryer temperature. If the heating element inside the cycling thermostat is never turned on (for the LOW dryer setting) then it always runs as the HIGH temp setting. No?
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