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Washer pulses lights while agitation cycle, but turns very little
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Ok, well, first go ahead and hook it up like I suggested to make sure the problem goes away when wired for high speed only. It's easy enough to hook it back up normally if you can get the motor switch fixed. If it works, I'll help you fix the switch. The problem is, the motor and switch are not made to come apart easily but I have repaired a couple of them so it is possible.
I spent 37 years as an electronics service technician with the federal government before retiring and now into appliance repair. Washers are a piece of cake compared to what I used to work on.
Eric
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Eric,
I did the wiring and it looks like you have me putting any motor control activation just to the high windings bypassing the low side. It seems to work ok but if I have the right schematic for the machine, it looks like the overload protection is now out of the circuit. Is that right? If so, that might not be a good idea unless I add one.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The thermal overload is in the neutral side and is still in circuit and protecting the motor. The problem with leaving the motor wired this way is that you no longer have gentle cycle. Also, normally, when washer goes into spin, it starts out in low speed for about a minute or so and then switches to high. With the way you have it wired now, it will always run in high speed so you have a little more strain on the motor when it starts spinning the sopping wet clothes directly after drain, but probably nothing really to worry about. Best to either replace the motor or try to fix it. If you want to tackle fixing it, I can give some pointers.
Eric
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I'm all ears, I hope to fix it or I'll have to buy a new one for the wifey
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Taking some photo's for you
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
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First, we need to make sure the low speed winding is ok. If it's open, there's no fixing the motor. In this photo, I'm checking continuity between the terminal where the white/red wire connects and this terminal on the back of the motor. Shows 3.4 ohms. Low speed winding good.   If winding is good, we can check the motor switch. Here, I'm reading between where the white/red wire and white wire connect. This is the high speed winding showing 1.5 ohms.  Now, I'm engaging the centrifugal mechanism which activates the switch over to the low speed winding which shows 3.5 ohms.  Activate the mechanism by pushing straight down on the disc with a screwdriver.  If your motor switch is faulty, it will either show an open circuit here or show high resistance. Motor disassembly to follow.
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To get inside the switch, you must remove the rear motor housing. Bend the four tabs that hold it, straight up. You will need four flathead screwdrivers and a helper. Work the screwdriver blades under the four corners of the housing and pry up simultaneously to work it loose. Be carefull of the motor switch as it is held in place by the housing. Once the housing is removed, you can pull the switch away from the motor a little bit so you can open it up. The switch will be held by the motor solid copper wire windings so just move the switch enough to be able to work on it. I don't have one here to show you but examine it closely and you will see the plastic clips/tabs that hold it together. Get them loose and the switch will come apart. Hopefully, just the contacts need cleaning but if it's too bad or broken or something else, it may not be repairable. There's no individual switch parts available as far as I know.  
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Thanks for all the help Eric,
I'll give it a whirl and keep you posted.
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Washer pulses lights while agitation cycle, but turns very little
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