I have a water cooler that has stopped cooling. Earlier this week someone provided me with a replacement p/n from this site, 2262185 for the motor starter relay. Prior to ordering a replacement relay I went home last nite to double check the single phase windings. Here is what I came up with. Common to what I believe to be Start approx 3 ohms, Common to what I believe to be Run approx 1 ohm, Run to Start approx 4 ohms. So that all looked normal to me. Keep in mind the pins are not labelled, Common, Start, Run. Reading other blogs I'm with the understanding that typically the Run winding is lowest resistance, in this case 1 ohm. Here is where I get confused. The 2 wires, L1 & L2, that are connected to the compressor go to the common point via the O/L ckt and the start winding via the motor starter connections. In comparison, looking at a mfg oem print for a 8EA403 motor starter (see attached) they show the L1 & L2 being tied to common and Run Winding which to me makes sense if I have the theory down correct. The theory I know is the PTC Pill will heat up after initial startup and supposedly open up thus removing 1 of the windings from the ckt. I believe the concept from what I've read and from mfg oem print for the 8EA403 is to remove the START winding. I also believe from my readings that the Start winding is always the higher resistive winding. Well, if my L2 line is connected to the pin which is the higher resistive winding won't that in turn remove the Run winding from the ckt once the pill heats up. I'm 100% positive of how the wires were connected when I started as I made a diagram before removing. I guess the burning question is, could it be possible that the run winding in this case is the 3 ohm winding vs the 1 ohm winding? I guess its also possible that the winding that measured 1 ohm was originally higher than the 3 ohm winding thus making it the start winding at one point. Is that possible? I was already to order my part until I started to realize that the theory doesn't really align with the wiring in this case. This also makes sense as to why my motor starter doesn't appear bad (contacts nor pill are burned up) I'm beginning to think maybe what was the start winding at maybe 5 ohms is now measuring 1 ohm and what was the run winding at 3 ohm only appears to be a start winding to me now because the other winding is lower resistance. Can someone set me straight on this? Just when I thought I had this thing figured out the actual wiring blew a hole in my theory. :confused: