Did you check and ohm out all the thermostats/thermistors and in line fuses and cut off thermostats in the drying circuit? an electric dryer has 2 lines of electricity one for rotation and the other for heat and they are separate ciruicts. If those check out i'd make sure your ventilation under your house and inside the unit are completely clean because it's very rare that the same problem happens on a new unit to me that's saying it's something to do with your house and ventilation.....Try unhooking the hose off the back and running the machine and see if it works properly......If it does then your venilation is clogged somewhere. Next step if it still doesn't work clean the plug terminals inside the receptacle in the wall by removing the cover and using a wire brush or sandpaper........clean the plug itself...........test the unit after that...........should have 240 across phases..........120 from L1 to nuetral and 120v from L2 to nuetral.......You may have a bad breaker also just because your getting voltage people think it's perfectly fine but i'm a journeyman electrician before i became a appliance tech and i've seen breakers give good voltage sometimes but are bad inside and foul out intermitently when tested under load and even though it's clicked over in the on position doesn't mean it's on...........Check all the above and get back with your findings.

Yeah with good venting and it happening with both units i'm suspecting the electrical is bad bring in a professional to check it. One other aspect also is did you make sure when you switch the old power cord onto the new unit did you connect that right also? Generally power line 1 and 2 are the outside ones which are red and black and the white is generally in the center..........good luck and write back after an electrician checks it out.

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

I would do the following just to be 100% sure that the venting is OK.
Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.

[COLOR="Blue"]Took apart dryer and tested the high limit fuse and cycling fuse for continuity and for temperature sensitivity.[/COLOR]
I am assuming that you mean thermostat not fuse.
The hi-limit should not be part of this problem as it is just a safety device.

I am not sure how you checked the operating thermostat for temperature sensitivity.
You could check the exhaust temperature on high heat. The thermostat opens at 155 degrees F and closes at 130 degrees F so your exhaust temperature should be in that range.

[COLOR="Blue"]Checked the thermal fuse for continuity while i was in there and it too is fine.[/COLOR]
The thermal fuse if blown would kill power to the motor.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Took out heating element and visually inspected then tested for continuity and it was fine.[/COLOR]
Did you check from each coil connector to the case, just to be sure it is not grounded? Both should have measured infinite ohms.

I am also not sure how the electrician tested the power.
Although I do not like doing live tests due to the danger you may have no choice. Check the 240 volts when the unit is running. It should not vary much when the element is on or off.

I am assuming that you have checked the blower wheel and it is clean and solidly attached to the motor shaft.

Have you checked the lint filter. Sometimes they can get coated in fabric softener residue and reduce air flow.

Check that all internal seals in the air flow path are OK.

Just grasping at straws here.
Strange that you get the same symptoms on different dryers and the common components to both units (power and vent) seem OK.
But could be different cause but same symptoms.

I should have thought of that.
Got the power and air flow as a constant between the dryers but the clothes are a third constant that did not pop into my head.
It should have as this I have seen before and actually asked the right question.
C'est la vie.

The tone of your post makes me think that I may have ruffled your feathers.
If so I apologize but the technical ability of the posters on this forum varies a great deal.

I try to keep my posts as basic as possible while giving as much info as possible. At the same time I am trying to educate people so that if they have other appliance problems they will have some basic knowledge and ability to get the unit up and running.

My comment on the thermal fuse was to get you to look at the wiring diagram so that you do not go down the garden path. Many folks cannot read a wiring diagram but if they do it once then they realize it is not very difficult.

As to is it a fuse or a thermostat it may just be semantics and in your case I knew what you meant.
But I feel it is important to point out that a part's description is important unless you want to spend a lot of time heading in the wrong direction.

I agree with all the points you made.
We just look at things in a different way.
Again I apologize if I upset you.

Good luck with the washer.

denman

Thanks for the tip yep being a tech sometimes we overlook the obvious for people to check when we're dealing with a machine but you're absolutely right i try and tell people that when a dryer is running fine when i test them but alot of times they can't grasp the fact of the clothes not spinning out right or an oversized load doing the same and they just don't get it and automatically think it's something to do with the dryer....same concept is the customers that always insist it's the element that's always out on dryers and in fact it rarely ever is but hey i guess that's why we make the big bucks coming out to places to figure that out huh.........Glad you figured it out and glad to help.