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This was bought new less than 2 years ago from Sears Outlet. When working it would sound like a capacitor start motor starting-then it would stop trying, this noise was repeated 3 times, then successful cycling. Now, the only sound when spin is selected is a very subdued growl, which ceases when the button is again pushed(to shut off). Where/how is the code read? Does the lowered lid close or open the lock circuit? After asking the owner(my sister) she says she couldn't get any action at all.
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These washers have been VERY problematic with lot's of different problems including faulty shift actuator, broken wires, loose connections, loose main pulley nut, faulty capacitor, faulty motors....and more. Tilt the machine back and find the manual inside the front of the cabinet. This will tell you how to get into service mode and check for error codes and do some troubleshooting functions. Take the belt guard off and check for a loose main pulley nut (very common problem). Check for broken wires in the wire run between motor and capacitor and at the coil of wire. Check for this at wire tie-down points. Check for bad connection at the capacitor. Re-seat all connectors at bottom of washer and at the control board behind user panel. The lid lock has two switches in it. One is open/closed by lid action (closed with lid down), the other is operated by the control board through a solenoid in the switch. Here's a web site dedicated to this piece of junk. VerticalModularWasher.com | Troubleshooting and Repair HelpEric
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Another issue i've seen which shows up like a main control issue and isn't the problem is something gets caught in the drain pump and it acts like a main board issue....even heavy sand or dirt in the pump will cause it in this model. Check in the drain pump to see if anything is clogged in it also........Also if you find the pully nut is just backed off or fell off take some teflon tape around the shaft where it screws in so you get a tighter nicer nut grab. Usually motors are reversed threaded so the nut doesn't spin off during operation in these units they didn't do that so the pullys fall off often and grind holes into the shield protecting the belt and pullys. Good luck
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My sister just came home and is going to the place she bought her reefer and dryer, and will buy another washer-I told her to get a simple Maytag. I never bought any other brand. About 5 years I had only a wringer machine-which seemed okay until I got an automatic again. The only time I'll ever get another wringer is if I end up way out off the grid-you can get a gas engine and run them. They can also be plumbed up to pump water into a shower stall.
Your info was real helpful-the videos are a real plus!
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Tell her not to buy the cheapest ones on the market...........buy medium priced and get a extended warranty if they offer. Also when she installs the new one have her connect a surge supressor fuse type if she can find one to the washer at the wall.........The new electronic boards on the newer units are known for blowing too often no matter what brand you buy. Fairbanks is right about the unit she has now they are a real piece of junk but happily keeping me busy.
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If you buy a "simple Maytag", your going to get the exact same washer you have now. There is no Maytag anymore. It's just a name on a Whirlpool washer, same as Kenmore, Roper and many others. The washer design you have now is Whirlpool's replacement to their direct drive models that sold for nearly 30 years. The only decent top loader nowadays is the Speed Queen models. They run around $800. You can buy a commercial Whirlpool which is still a direct drive model.
Eric
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