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Joined: 7/19/2013(UTC)
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Motor turns. Agitates & drains fine. Drum pulley winds up the helix and stops at the top, the belt slips on the motor pulley and the drum doesn't spin. Have removed the top ring & there are no foreign objects between the drums. Replaced the brake package, the thrust bearing below it, and the radial bearing above it. Also replaced the belts and the motor springs & sliders. Drum turns when I turn the big pulley CW but isn't easy. When the pulley climbs the helix, its tab passes just above the tab on the splined cam washer, so I assume that the cam setting isn't the problem. I replaced the main bearing & seal last October but don't see how that can be related after it's worked for eight months. What's left to check?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
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Darn, hard to say, sounds like you have done the right things.
Run it with the front panel off and see if the pulley is turning. If it is then the transmission may be the problem, if not the brakes may not be releasing despite what you have done.
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Rank: Member
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Removed inner drum, no foreign objects. Activated spin with drum removed; transmission housing rotates about 1" and stops hard. Motor keeps turning, belt stops. Raise & close lid, housing rotates another 1" and stops hard.
Once the pulley climbs the helix, its drive lug is completely above the one on the washer on the end of the shaft, so there's no reason for the brake not to be releasing. But if the entire transmission is supposed to rotate, it doesn't make sense that some failure inside the transmission is causing this.
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What is the serial number of your washer?
Eric
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Rank: Advanced Member
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If I'm getting what your saying correctly, the pulley drive lug should not rotate so far around that it goes past and above the stop lug. If this is the case, the transmission input drive shaft has been pulled down. During normal operation, the pulley climbs the helix and the thrust bearing pushes up on the brake to release it. The same amount of force is also pulling down on the transmission input shaft. This engages the clutch inside the transmission so that the transmission housing is locked to the input shaft. There is a stop collar on the transmission input shaft above the pinion gear in the transmission. There are two types of collar depending on the serial number of your washer. The earlier type has a pin that goes through the collar and shaft and they have been known to shear off.
Eric
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Rank: Member
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Serial number is 23262189UM. I pulled the outer tub & transmission--I was almost that far anyway--but they didn't want to separate. Removed the transmission cover: I have C-shaped metal collar and a C-shaped plastic clip or collar above that. Everything looks fine inside. There's only about 1/8" of vertical play in the input shaft.
But even with the outer tub and transmission removed as a unit, it takes two hands to rotate the transmission with respect to the tub. I'm assuming I screwed something up when I installed the bearing & seal last year or it would have lasted longer. Rather than replace the bearing again or soak it in oil and hope it continues to work, I'm going to scrap the machine; I've already spent too much time and money trying to make it work.
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