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zyfly  
#1 Posted : Monday, July 15, 2013 5:17:32 PM(UTC)
zyfly

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I have a GE SxS fridge (PSC23NSWASS) which despite numerous repairs(see below) continues to have a problem with defrosting. I am assuming this because there is frost and ice droplets forming on the evaporative panel and the freezer temp rose to 4 (set at 0) and the fridge rose to 38(set a 34). This is always the pattern, in which I do a repair and manually defrost the coils and then after around 4-6 days, the problem with frost and rising temps occurs again.

Repairs: I have replaced both temp sensors (WR55X10025) in the freezer, the defrost thermostat (WR50X10069) and the main board(WR55X10942).

I tested the defrost heater with a multi-meter at room temperature and it read zero.

Questions:
1) How to I really test the defrost heater?
2) why after the main board replacement is both the fridge and freezer temps going to 2 degrees both above and below their set temps? The old board did not do this I 'believe'. Note: I did clean the condensor with a brush and electrical parts cleaner.
3) what else could be wrong with this unit?
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richappy  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, July 16, 2013 2:49:54 AM(UTC)
richappy

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Remove the three pin power connector to the motherboard and place a jumper between the connector pins as labeled line and def. on the motherboard.
Plug in refrigerator, if you see no defrost action, you just may have a bad connection someplace in the freezer.
zyfly  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, July 16, 2013 12:06:48 PM(UTC)
zyfly

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Richappy, thanks for your reply. Can you elaborate on my other questions?

When I tested the defrost heater with a multi-meter, it read zero at room temperature. Is this an adequate test?

Is the new main board defective in that it is not controlling temps adequately as I described (rising and falling 2 degrees above/below set temps). Is the main board not compatible with the new sensors?

I will test the defrost heater as you suggest. I will find out what a jumper is and try to do this safely even though I have no idea what this is. I can pull the evaporative panel off and expose the heater during the test and see if it lights up I guess.

Thanks in advance. This is a very stubborn problem and I have put in many hours and getting quite frustrated now.
richappy  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, July 17, 2013 12:30:29 AM(UTC)
richappy

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You place a stripped wire between the terminals mentioned.
zyfly  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, July 17, 2013 9:59:49 AM(UTC)
zyfly

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Thanks Rich. With the new main boards and freezer temp sensors I installed, the freezer/fridge temps seems to vary more when compared with the old board/sensors. The freezer is set at 0 and fridge at 34, yet I saw a freezer temp today of -3 and sometimes it goes up to 3 even with very mild door opening. The fridge can go down to 32 but tends to rise only to 36-36 with mild-moderate use.

Also, it appears to be functioning a little better now in that I don't see any frost build up on the evaporative panel. Before with the old board, the compressor would not even come on when ice built up on the coils, now it is coming on and ice seems to be disapating.

So, is the temp variance with this new board nominal? I had a GE 1-800 person tell me the temp should not go down to 32 when set at 34. I may return the board and put another one in.
richappy  
#6 Posted : Thursday, July 18, 2013 12:27:24 AM(UTC)
richappy

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Monitor it for a period, probably will be ok.
zyfly  
#7 Posted : Friday, July 19, 2013 2:01:07 PM(UTC)
zyfly

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Hi Rich, I have been monitoring the temps and they very greatly from the set temps, as much as 4-5 degrees in both freezer and fridge. -4 in freezer when set to 0 and as much as +5. Fridge, 32 to 37 when set at 34.

So I read that you can unplug and leave for a while and replug and this may correct the problem. I did this yesterday and now the temps are within 1 degree of set temps. I "shouldn't have to reboot a brand new board IMO, so I am still considering just returning the board and getting a new one.

Do you think the replug will fix the problems and if so, is this a known fix for this kind of issue OR do you think this new board is defective or somehow not compatible with the 2 brand new temp sensors and defrost Thermostat I just put in?

Thanks in Advance. This fridge is nothing but headaches now
richappy  
#8 Posted : Saturday, July 20, 2013 12:57:08 AM(UTC)
richappy

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Also, replace the fresh food thermistor.
zyfly  
#9 Posted : Saturday, July 20, 2013 8:46:48 AM(UTC)
zyfly

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No need to replace the Fridge thermistor. As I mentioned before, after unplugging the unit for 5 min, now the temps are very close to their set temps and its been 3 days so, problem fixed. The defrost cycle is working as well. Occassionally there are ice droplets and some frost that forms due to the high humidity, but later in the day, they are gone.

So, bottom line: unplug(reboot) main board when temps vary a lot as sometimes the board gets off track, probably related to first time use.
zyfly  
#10 Posted : Sunday, September 8, 2013 11:21:50 AM(UTC)
zyfly

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Hi Rich. Please read my previous post re: new Main Board not controlling the temps adequately, especially my last post where the prb was apparently resolved by unplugging fridge for a while. However, today, 2 months later now, all the lights went out in the fridge section including display panel. I unplugged for a while, then when plugged back in, all lights are back on and freezer is running. However, the fridge temp was 45! Customer Svc has ordered me a new main board, but I have a question: I never replaced the thermistors in the fridge section, only freezer. I have heard of a prb with this GE fridge (model PSC23NSWASS) where the newer main boards (there was a recall on the old board) are not compatible with the old sensors. Could the old sensors in the Fridge have caused this latest prb? If not, what else could be causing the main board to malfunction. Perhaps another component is burning out these main boards!

Thanks in advance, Ron Fulton 623-225-6615
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