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Can bad defrost thermostat cause warm fridge, cold freezer with icy coils
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Joined: 7/6/2013(UTC) Posts: 2
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I've been reading through the forums but couldn't find a decisive answer on this. I'm believe I have a bad defrost thermostat but don't know if that is the only issue. Here's the background:
- Fridge was warm, no air coming in from freezer at all. - Freezer was cold and appeared to be operating properly. - Took everything out of freezer and saw ice/frost covering the back of the freezer. Took off back covers and found coils iced over. Defrosted and melted all the ice with a hair dryer. The fan above the coils still runs okay. - From info on the forums, I measured the resistance of the defrost heater and thermostat. Heater (black and white middle wire on connector) was approx. 22 ohms while thermostat was open or 250Kohm. Put the thermostat in ice water and no change - still showed as open. - It therefore sounds like the thermostat is bad. I ordered a new defrost heater and thermostat since they are sold together.
However, I don't think this explains why there was no air flowing from the freezer into the fridge? Is it possible there is something else wrong too? I've read a lot about issues with the ADC or damper control. Any ideas? Thank you in advance for your help!
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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Yor model number is missing some digits at the end of it. But if I select on of the units which starts with the number you gave it does come up with a wiring diagram.
[COLOR="Blue"]22 ohms while thermostat was open or 250Kohm[/COLOR] Not sure what the above means. If you measured across the thermostat/heater combination. Then 22 ohms looks OK when the thermostat is frozen (closed). Also 250 Kohms is OK when the thermostat is above freezing (open) |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/6/2013(UTC) Posts: 2
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Thanks denman. Here's the characters at the end of the model number: 2766GES.
I measured 22 Ohms across the heater. I then measured 250KOhms across the thermostat when it was at room temperature. I then measured 250KOhms across the thermostat even when I put it in a glass of ice water. I was expecting it to go down to 0. Is this correct?
Could a bad thermostat cause the warm fridge side and no air to flow into my fridge from the freezer on it's own, or: 1) Is it more likely something else is wrong or also wrong in addition to the thermostat?
2) Would the defrost thermostat issue have caused the ice build up that eventually created a blockage that would have caused the fridge side to be warm and receive no air from the freezer?
3) Note - even with my freezer door open there was no air flowing into my fridge so I don't think the draw of air from my fresh food section at the bottom of the fridge into the freezer was a problem or opening the door to the freezer would have addressed that. Right?
Thank you for your help!!
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Joined: 6/13/2016(UTC) Posts: 72
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To keep away from personal injury or death, always unplug the appliance or disconnect the power before attempting any repairs. Always turn off the gas at the source before repairing any gas appliance. Always wear safety glasses when using tools. Keep loose clothing and hair away from any moving parts. Security is of major importance when performing any service or repair on any electrical appliance. Please, read our disclaimer before proceeding. It doesn’t run It doesn’t cool Too cold (freezing food) It makes excessive noise Water leaking inside it Ice maker not functioning or producing ice cubes Water dispenser doesn’t work Ice dispenser doesn’t work It doesn’t defrost Defrost drain problems Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm Ice maker overflows Light doesn’t work
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That has got to be one of the most useless thread resurrection posts I've ever seen.
You sir, are a Bot! A bot that is dripping with spam. Ick. Now be gone.
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Can bad defrost thermostat cause warm fridge, cold freezer with icy coils
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