Yes, you can fix that. You will need a new female terminal.

Whirlpool 352088 Terminal, Female (disconnect Black) - AppliancePartsPros.com

There are proper crimp pliers for installing them which you probably don't have and you need to make sure to do a good crimp job. If you crimp with something other than the proper tool, I would suggest adding a very small amount of solder to the connection. Do not let the solder wick up the wire strands as this will become a weak point due to vibration of the wires. There is a very small tab on the terminal that locks it into the connector housing. A small jewelers screwdriver will usually work well to get the old one out. Also, when you strip the wire to install the connector, if the wire strands are discolored/oxidized, I would keep cutting back until you find good clean wire strands. If you don't have enough slack in the wire, then you will need to get some additional wire (16awg) and splice it to the existing wire using a butt connector.

Eric

Excellent photos! Thank you! I have a question, though. You said to replace my existing "Quick-Connect" (which now I understand to be called a "dis-connect"). You probably said that because I said it was "burned." Upon close inspection, it is only discolored. Therefore, following your instructions, this is what I'll do. Please tell me if this sounds right:
1.) I will imitate what you are doing in your photo; I will press back the "holding tab" with a small screwdriver which will release the bad electrical wire and allow me to pull it out.
2.) I will cut off the bad/charred end, until I see fresh copper, and then I will attach a fresh new "Crimp-on-thingy."
3.) Then I will insert the wire (with it's new Crimp-On-Thingy attached) into my existing discolored QuickConnect.

Does that sound exactly right, in the right order? Oh, I just realized something -- getting that EXACT SAME "crimp-on-thingy" is going to be next to impossible because it has to be exactly the right size to fit in my Quick-Connect plug.... how am I going to do that?!?

Maybe what I'll end up having to do is get a whole new harness with wires already in it, and then do this:
1.) From the brand new wiring harness (with nice new wires already in it), I'll carefully remove one of the wires (using your screwdriver/tab technique).
2.) I'll cut the BAD wire out of my existing harness and then WIRENUT the new wire onto it.
3.) Then I'll plug the fresh new wire end thingy into my existing QuickConnect.

I'm thinking if I do it that way, the little wire clippy-crimpy-thingy will be nice new and fresh, and if I connect the new wire to my existing wire using an actual wire nut, I'll have a good, safe, tight connection. I might even do an extra good job, pretwisting the wires, and then using electrical tape over the wirenut. That way, it will be a good safe wirenut connection, and I won't have to worry about vibration, solder, etc.

What do you think?

Hi internet people. I'm trying to get an idea how much labor is involved with replacing a wiring harness. The short version is I was quoted $350 labor to replace one in a Samsung front loader. I'm trying to figure out if that's fair. But there's a bit more to the story.

I called an appliance repair shop about a month ago because the washer wouldn't spin. They were very backed up, but had good reviews so I decided to wait for a service call.

The tech spent less than five minutes on it and said the motor was bad and would cost at least $800 to replace, so he said I should just buy a new machine.

I paid the $100 for the service call then looked up the cost of a new motor. It's $116, so I called and asked why it would cost over $800 to replace such an inexpensive part. They came back with an estimate saying it needed a new motor, new motor cover and new motor control board.

So I left a negative review online questioning how the tech came to this conclusion without even opening the machine. He only checked the error codes.

The owner then called and offered to send a different tech. He came today and actually diagnosed it. The motor and control board were fine. The wiring harness was damaged and needed to be replaced. He told me it would be another $580 on top of the $100 service call I already paid. I said ok, but asked to see an estimate.

They sent the estimate. It's $190 for the part + shipping. A little high, but ok. But then the labor was $350. The first estimate they gave me to replace the motor, motor cover and control board was only $200 for labor. Not knowing much about washing machines, I would think that's a bigger job than replacing a wiring harness. But thought I'd try to find someone who knows so I'll know if that's fair.

I put a new wire harness on my ge top loader washer and now when I push start it won't fill