Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Caleb5505  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, October 7, 2009 10:32:46 AM(UTC)
Caleb5505

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

My built-in above-the-oven microwave has no power. When I replaced the internal fuse, power came on but would not shut off unless I opened the door. With the door closed, the inside light and a fan stays on. When I set the cook timer and pressed start. There was an additional deeper motor sound as if it just started cooking. This makes me think that the previous sound was just a cooling or ventilation fan. This deeper sound only stayed on for a moment when the whole thing went dead again. No lights, no beeps, nothing. I hope this makes sense.

There was no model number on the microwave itself. The model number listed came from the lower oven. A sticker inside the microwave has a manufacturer date of 1994.

Please help,
Caleb
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
Gene  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, October 7, 2009 1:06:50 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Most likely the problem is a bad door switches (interlock and monitor). They are shown as #1 & #2 on the diagram. I would check the high voltage capacitor as well. Be very careful and discharge the capacitor first.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RM770PXBB0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
Caleb5505  
#3 Posted : Thursday, October 8, 2009 2:07:26 PM(UTC)
Caleb5505

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

Thanks for the advise, Gene. I tested the HV Cap and it seems to be ok. Could the door switches alone be the cause of the fuse popping? Can they be tested? Also, what other components can I test with a simple multi-meter?

I'm just trying to rule out as many things as possible so I'm not just buying parts at random.

Thanks Again,
Caleb :o)
Gene  
#4 Posted : Thursday, October 8, 2009 3:58:38 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Quote:
...Could the door switches alone be the cause of the fuse popping?...


Yes.


Quote:

...Can they be tested?...


Yes.

The monitor switch is "normally closed" and should be "open" with the door closed. If it's closed then it will short the circuit causing the fuse to blow out.

The interlock switch is "normally open" and should be "closed" with the door closed.

Gene.
Caleb5505  
#5 Posted : Thursday, October 8, 2009 4:48:31 PM(UTC)
Caleb5505

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/6/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

Hi again, I've tested the 3 door switches and they seem to be good... I think. One is closed when the door is open, and open when the door is closed. The other two work exactly opposite. They are open when the door is open and closed when the door is closed... or maybe I have that backwards. At any rate, they each have an open state and a closed state.

So... the door switches and HV Cap have turned out to be ok.

What's next? :o)
Gene  
#6 Posted : Thursday, October 8, 2009 8:20:57 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
The next step is to check the magnetron for continuity between each terminal to ground. Presence of continuity means the magnetron is shorted and has to be replaced. You have to test the diode as well.

Gene.
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.