I'll try again. I think I have correct fault codes but not sure how to figure out which one is problem with ohmmeter & voltmeter.
The washer doesn't agitate or spin per my wife.
Fault codes are: F7 E1 on first check. Fault prior to that is F7 E5
I had to get these by activating service diagnostic codes as mine doesn't have separate display, and with this you can get the last 4 (if that many) faults, etc. I only got these 2, then it just blinked the sensing.

WHAT I'VE DONE:
I've checked the belt and Splutch, both 'look' good. So maybe motor or shifter.

ONE thing is that when I ran the automatic test on it the lid lock flashed red the entire time. It is locked though. It seemed like it was cycling or thought it would but rather it did actually spin/agitate I don't know, but since that's the problem then probably not.
Why would the lid lock flash red?

I also noted on the motor what looks like a wire covered in "silver" solder or something. I've not seen this in all the pictures or videos I've seen when looking at the bottom of machine.

WHAT I DON'T KNOW?

By the time I buy ohmmeter/voltmeter to see if motor or shifter or what else(??) would it be wise to buy shifter first (least expensive), and if that didn't work then go for the motor?? Which is about $200+

Thanks Eric, I so appreciate this! Just called a repairmen I got from Angie's List and he doesn't work on them anymore. He said he was 75% sure it is motor, but I've heard what you said before about the shifter.
Probably just order both from AppliancePartsPros and give back motor if shifter fixes it.
Thanks again. Sure hope this is it since nobody wants to work on the dang things!

Don't you know. Just went to AppliancePartsPro and they said its the motor. I will update after I get part, put it in and let everyone know if indeed that was the right part. I told her about actuator and if it winds up being that, they will hear from me, and I'll still thank you profusely! GO ERIC

Originally Posted by: fairbank56

Wonder why he doesn't work on them anymore? Most tech's consider these Whirlpool belt drives as goldmines because they have so many problems and are easy to work on. May be the high cost of repair parts when many people just decide to trash the thing and get a new one.

If the motor doesn't attempt to move at all, it could be a faulty motor, capacitor, control board, wiring harness connector or a broken wire in the harness or at capacitor which are common. Broken wires are common at wire tie-down points where they cinched the wire ties far too tight, especially the one between the motor and the coiled up section of wire.

Eric

Eric and anyone else who's interested.
I ordered a new motor from AppliancePartsPros even after you told me it was the Shifter. Why? Because when I went to order the shifter I was on CHAT, I wanted to make sure I got right part. That's when I was told it wasn't Shifter (actuator), but motor. Ordered it, put it in, then calibrated the machine. When calibrating I heard something that wasn't present before.
First a very quick 'grinding' noise. Second, it sounded like machine was laboring to either agitate or spin (whichever it does during calibration)!

>>Wife came home and I told her, asked her if she did hear any grinding in machine before it stopped going thru wash cycle and then spin. She said No, first time anything wrong that she knew, it wouldn't spin. Wrung them out by hand, put them in dryer. Said ok, i'll stay out here this time. Put in a couple of things put it on Eco iWash. It filled but she noticed when light was on for wash, she couldn't hear the water "slushing" (agitating). Still no strange noise, machine is normally very quiet. She left it alone to see if it would spin. It went thru rest of cycles fine but when it got to where the spin light was on, you could tell it wasn't spinning (no noise, but you can feel it spin normally). When all finished, again, had to wring them out by hand. Voila, that's when she noticed the 1st wash she had put in dryer after spinning wasn't as clean as normal, ergo, it hadn't washed on that one either.....Deduction=no agitate, no spin.<<<
I put it in diagnostic mode. When it was on Automatic check (for diagnostics), I heard it sound like it was struggling to either spin or agitate (have no idea which it does during Auto diagnostic mode).
WHEW.
[Came on here and asked if anyone knew what might be the problem. This after calling a repairmen from Angie's List who wouldn't come out, doesn't work on Whirlpool HE Machines anymore, but did tell me he was over 75% sure it was motor!
Our very own Eric here on the forum (Fairbanks56...), told me it was most likely the Shifter and was kind enough to send a link to order it. That's when I got talked into Motor!]:mad:

MY QUESTION NOW PLEASE????
******
After putting in new motor and as above calibrating: would that have anything to do with it now making that quick definite grinding noise? If so, why after putting in a new motor?
Maybe Shifter was bad, but putting in new motor made it "really fail?"

AppliancePartsPro was very nice and said they would send me tag to return Motor, give me credit and credit me free shipping I've paid on motor, AND give me 20% off Shifter I ordered today and ship it for free....Not bad, thank you AppliancePartsPros. Thank You Forum, and ERIC!

Now if anyone could please answer this last question under **** I would be eternally grateful..May I never buy another washer for $850 or so! :eek: :D