I have this Affinity front load washer that will not spin. I checked the service manual and ran the diagnostics test #6. When it completed it showed error E47. The manual instructions were to verify the door was closed, it was. Then it said to check the voltage on the J2 plug on the control panel. It's not labeled, but I think this is the White 2-wire plug which is right next to the Green 2-wire plug on the left side of the Control Board. The manual said to measure the Black wire to ground with the power on and if it's 120V I need to replace the Control Board. I measured it and it is 120V.

I just wanted to check to see if this is accurate before I spend the cash on the Control Board. I've seen other posts in this forum where the Door Lock assembly was the problem and much less expensive than the Control Board. Are there any other tests that I can perform to determine which part I need?

Thanks,
John

It took a while to get a reply here. In my other searches there seemed to be more occurrences of a failed Door Lock Assembly which I ordered. I will post updates on the outcome.

Thanks!

The Door Lock Assembly arrived yesterday and it fixed the problem. So the troubleshooting guide in the manual was a bit misleading suggesting the Control Board. Incidentally, I measured resistance on the defective switch at the top of the Door Lock Assembly and was getting various readings from 1500 ohms to 1800 ohms. On the new switch I was getting a steady reading of about 800 ohms. I installed the new switch by removing the wire that holds the door seal in place and removing the door seal in the area of the Door Lock Assembly. This is much easier than accessing it through the top of the washer. After I plugged the power cord in, I ran the diagnostics test #6 and it ran without error. We've now done a couple of loads of laundry and everything is back to normal.

Thanks for your help! I hope this additional information will help others who are having this problem.

John

All,

I read many postings about the Frigidaire Affinity washers not spinning. I fixed the problem by doing two things:
[LIST=1]

I removed the front panel of washing machine, disconnected the hoses that connect to the drain pump, and checked the filter for debris. I found about $1 worth of coins, a piece of string, and a "twisty-tie"(like those small paper-covered wires that are used to seal a bag holding a loaf of bread). How does this stuff get there??? The hoses are VERY difficult to re-attach. I ended up using an automotive type of hose clamp for the hose on the right side...this one was very difficult to secure otherwise. This DID NOT fix the problem.

I then replaced the DOOR LOCK AND SWITCH ASSEMBLY. This was a VERY easy item to replace and THIS DID FIX THE PROBLEM. I did not bother going through the diagnostics and measuring voltages with my digital multi-meter. I just replaced the part. I purchased the part at a local vendor and picked it up same day.[/LIST]So the washer NOW works great....

...until my wife told me yesterday afternoon that the door will not lock at all. I immediately recognized that the STRIKE cracked due to the sagging door and mis-alignment of the features on the STRIKE with the features on the DOOR LOCK AND SWITCH ASSEMBLY. The main portion of the STRIKE was still attached to the door, but the remainder of the STRIKE, the small tip, was trapped inside of the DOOR LOCK AND SWITCH ASSEMBLY. So I had to remove the DOOR LOCK AND SWITCH ASSEMBLY, open up the assembly (very easy to do), remove the small part, re-assembled, and then re-attached the assembly to the washing machine.

I am an engineer by profession. I am a consultant and I design all kinds of products for my clients. I also own a very low-end 3D printer. So I did some basic reverse-engineering of the STRIKE, created a 3D model, and "grew" the part on my 3D printer. It took about 50 minutes to grow the part and it works great. SEE THE ATTACHED PDF showing some pictures.

Not every single hole and cavity had to be integrated into the "design". The holes on the tip of the locking feature and the cavity on the underside of the part are only there to prevent sinking during the injection molding process. So I did not add these features into my 3D model.

While my part is fabricated from ABS plastic, I do not expect the part to last very long because the material used to fabricate the part is not the intended production material. These rapid prototyped parts are susceptible to delamination, so I do not expect that the part will have a long life. I will probably purchase an actual part this afternoon.

Needless to say, my wife was doing laundry again in about 1.5 hours from breakage to reverse-engineering to "growing" a new part to actual repair.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Neal Rosenblum
www.geometrixeng.com

File Attachment(s):

affinity_strike.pdf (537kb) downloaded 75 time(s).

Dear Sidfink43,

I agree. I think that the future of replacement parts will be carried out using 3D printing. There will no longer be vast warehouses with millions of parts in stock.

You will have a guy sitting at a desk opening 3D data files and sending the data to a 3D printer. Parts will be available in just few hours.

There is even technology out there called DMLS (direct metal laser sintering) that can produce 3D printed parts made from stainless steel, aluminum, and titanium. I have used DMLS to fabricate titanium eyeglasses for one of my customers.

I posted my website in my last thread. My website is currently being re-constructed and should be updated and live on 7/8/2013 or 7/9/2013.

--Neal