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That's a sloppy install job by the GE technician. The capacitor and relay are not part of your original washer. It was required and added at the time of the installation of your new motor. He should not have wrapped the harness around the tub support rod like that. That rod gets a LOT of movement during agitation mode. The top of the relay should be facing upwards to protect the terminal connections from any water splashover from the tub. Anyway, good job on getting that fixed. No need for any donation. Always glad to help a DIY'er get their washer repaired. Especially those like yourself who have a clue what they are doing.
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  That's a sloppy install job by the GE technician. The capacitor and relay are not part of your original washer. It was required and added at the time of the installation of your new motor. He should not have wrapped the harness around the tub support rod like that. That rod gets a LOT of movement during agitation mode. The top of the relay should be facing upwards to protect the terminal connections from any water splashover from the tub. Anyway, good job on getting that fixed. No need for any donation. Always glad to help a DIY'er get their washer repaired. Especially those like yourself who have a clue what they are doing.
Eric I stand corrected on thinking the factory did this botchery. I figured the wiring was installed that way at the factory to make sure it didn't get near the blades of the exposed water pump that is directly beneath the capacitor. I'd love to see a photo of a factory installation --- if the capicator, relay and water pump are in the same proximity --- to see how they did the wire routing yet stayed away from the pump fan while allowing sufficient wire harness movement without putting a strain on anything. I wrapped the wiring harness around the rod similar to the way I found it --- I just made sure the wires to the capacitor did not carry any weight, and kept the capacitor from rotating by taping it to the harness from the top of the washer. Now that I know what a mess I really had, I'd like to redo the wire routing while it's on my mind, and totally unwrap the wiring harness from the support rod ... if that is the intended method. Do you have a photo of a GE washer that shows that routing?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The original motor in your washer is no longer available which is why they offered the new motor with install kit. That kit includes the new pigtail wiring harness, capacitor and relay. The harness gets spliced into the old wiring and capacitor and relay get installed in the front cabinet. In newer washers that came from the factory with the new style motor, the capacitor and relay are installed inside the user control panel at the top. So there is no "factory" install of these components in the front cabinet. It's up to the technician to get it right. Here's a couple photo's of one I did last year. The relay is taped to the new wiring harness in the upright position and the new wiring harness is tie-wrapped to the old one above the capacitor. The new wiring harness goes behind the suspension rod once where it is taped to prevent chafing. This is the way the original harness was routed. There is plenty of slack in the new wiring harness between where it comes from behind the rod to where it is tie-wrapped to the pump wiring above the cabinet clamp so that there is no tension at all on the wires attached to the relay and capacitor when the tub support is swinging during agitate. Eric  
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 The original motor in your washer is no longer available which is why they offered the new motor with install kit. That kit includes the new pigtail wiring harness, capacitor and relay. The harness gets spliced into the old wiring and capacitor and relay get installed in the front cabinet. In newer washers that came from the factory with the new style motor, the capacitor and relay are installed inside the user control panel at the top. So there is no "factory" install of these components in the front cabinet. It's up to the technician to get it right. Here's a couple photo's of one I did last year. The relay is taped to the new wiring harness in the upright position and the new wiring harness is tie-wrapped to the old one above the capacitor. The new wiring harness goes behind the suspension rod once where it is taped to prevent chafing. This is the way the original harness was routed. There is plenty of slack in the new wiring harness between where it comes from behind the rod to where it is tie-wrapped to the pump wiring above the cabinet clamp so that there is no tension at all on the wires attached to the relay and capacitor when the tub support is swinging during agitate. Eric Thank you for those photos. A far cry from what was done to the wire routing here. I untaped everything & rerouted per your photos as best I could without recutting anything. I did a couple of things differently. I attached the tiewrap near the motor from the top, which placed the harness well above the tie rod bracket. (I attached it from the bottom yesterday and it had already pulled out of its hole). I ran a new tiewrap thru a hole that’s an inch above the capacitor mount so it would prevent the capacitor from rotating, which it wanted to do no matter how tight I got the bracket screw. The tiewrap also went around the relay, which now points up, so that will stay put. No more strain on any connectors and plenty of wiggle room for the harness. As you can see from the photo, it’s not as neat as yours but should be more than adequate. Thanks for everything. If you ever get near Greenville, SC, look me up. Dinner’s on me!Stephenluck attached the following image(s):
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