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balabask  
#1 Posted : Sunday, April 21, 2013 7:59:30 AM(UTC)
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balabask

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/21/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1

GE PROFILE Fridge Model : GSH252GPASS

Hi,
Good Morning!. We have a GE Profile side by side refridgerator. the issue we are having is the Fresh food side is warm

and vegetables are smelling and it is warm. I pulled the fridge and cleaned the dust build-up from the coil behind and

the fan. The fan in front of the coil is working. Compressor works, freezer side making ice. Evaporator fan works,

collect pan has water at the bottom of the fridge back side.

Changed the damper thermistor and it is working. but the air flow is not great. Checked the evaporator fan and it is

working, removed the freezer side back panel, saw slight frost build up at the bottom and took 4 min of hair drier time

to make it completely dry. Noticed the thermostat Back side is bulged(might need to be replaced i believe).

Checked the fresh food side bottom vent for any blockage - none, kept a dollar bill and it sticks to the vent, looks like

the air is flowing, but not great though.

The mother board was changed recently by a tech and the fridge worked for about an year now.

My questions are these.

1) How to check the thermistor, thermostat, heating filament using a multi meter. what are the good-bad meeter readings

for these parts on a multi meter and what are the points that I need to keep my probs of multimeter to test.

2) How to improve the air circulation from the freezer to firdge side - I read some thing about temperature control board

what is this and how do I test this.( Should I replace the existing working evaporator fan) is there any other fans that

needs to be checked or replaced in this model? I do not see one in the fresh food side.

3) I also read from internet that there is a self diagnosis to tell what is working okay and what part is bad. and some

ind of table to tell the numbers to use. is there one for this model if yes, can you share this info.

I am saving the food for now by opening the damper door, disconnected damper chords. Cannot continue this for long.
Please help....

Thanks & Regards,
Bala
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scott5495  
#2 Posted : Sunday, April 21, 2013 3:01:30 PM(UTC)
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scott5495

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 188

the thermistors can be checked at the mother board on the back of ref. remove cover to gain access. unplug the ref. at the upper right hand corner of the board there will be a connector at j1, this is written beside the connector. remove the connector. thermistors read anywhere between 2k and 80k ohms. set your meter to a high scale. on the connector from left to right, count five positions over, first opening in connector may or may not have a wire, count this position anyway. place black meter lead into the 5 position. place your red lead into the the first wire. ohm reading should be 4k to 10k if good, 13k to16k if bad. move your lead to the second wire and readings should be close to the same as the first wire and same conclusions. these are the two refrigerator side thermistors. one is located at the damper and one is located close to the bottom of ref. if one checks bad, replace them both. ge had some sensor problems in the past. if both thermistors check good then you could have a bad damper motor or mother board. to determine damper motor, unplug the ref. wait 60 seconds and plug back in. watch the damper for a minute or two and see if it moves. it should move as this is a self test at startup. to double check the motor if it does not move, take the damper out and ohm thru the motor. if it reads any ohms the motor is good, if it reads open it is bad.
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