Mike, There is a locking tab on the wire harness connector that when you insert it into the icemaker connector has to be pressed and locked in place. Sometimes it's easier to use a mall flat blade screwdriver and insert it into the connector enough to raise the area around the tab then pull out on the harness to remove it. Then you can insert the replacement harness and complete the installation.

Under the circumstances, you may want to check for power at the refrigerator harness connector. You have to be careful, this is a live voltage test. With the icemaker removed, use a multi meter or test light and place the probes across the black and white wire terminals of the harness connector. You should read 120 VAC or the test light should illuminate. If you have the voltage, then proceed with the repair, the thermal fuse in the harness is "blown" If you don't have the voltage at the harness connector, then the harness inside the refrigerator wall is damaged and there is no repair to make, a broken, damaged wire inside the cabinet can't be repaired
properly.

Mike, You may want to "splice" a section of the black wire with the fuse, into the existing harness. Just make sure you do it properly with solder and "shrink wrap" over the splices. Make sire you mount the fuse to the ice maker mold assembly. That may keep you going until we can find the proper ice maker wire harness for a proper repair. It appears the Part number: AP6006032

Jeep, Let's start with some basics, hopefully you have a multi meter, start at the main control board, check for 120 VAC across P1/2 white wire and P3/4 black/white wire, you should read 120 VAC. if not faulty wire connection or faulty main control board. The check for 120 VAC from the black/white wire to chassis ground at the ice maker connector, no voltage, recheck from the black/white wire to the white/brown wire, No voltage on either test, the thermal fuse on the black white wire is open/blown.
At the dispenser control board, check the J5 connector. Across J5/1 red to J5/3 black/white wires, you should read 14 VDC. This circuit is the power supply to the emitter and receiver boards, no voltage would indicate a faulty user interface board or wiring issue. These are voltage checks, so be careful, and make sure you have the refrigerator power cord plugged in and the freezer door switch taped down and all the ice maker components are in position and activated. Let us know what you find and we'll go from there.

Jeep85, Unfortunately we're in the EST zone and will be away from the office by the time you get home. reply to this post, include an e mail address or area code and phone number, so we can try and set something up to help you out. We can delete the information (this is a public forum) you supplied and go from there. Thanks,