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Parts for Maytag LDE9306ACE - AppliancePartsPros.com

Do you have the wiring diagram for this unit?
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I have 240 volts at the outlet.[/COLOR]
Is there 240 volts at the terminal strip in the unit?
Could always be a bad line cord.
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The heating element shows continuity and 120 volts on each terminal.[/COLOR]
The 120 on both sides of the heating coil does not tell you much as Neutral is not part of the heater circuit.
Was the motor running when you measured this?
If yes is there voltage at the heater when the motor is not running but the timer is at mid scale of a manual heating mode?

The below assumes the motor was off when you checked the voltage.
If the timer is set to a heating mode then the L1 (120 volts) voltage is connected thru some timer contacts to one side of the heating coil as long as the cycling thermostat and hi-limit thermostat are OK. So if you see it on one side and the heating coil is OK you will also see it on the other side (the 120 feeds through the heating coil).
It does tell you that the odds are high that the timer, thermostats and heating coil are OK.

If the motor was running when you did the voltage test then you may have been seeing the L2 voltage at the coil.
It is fed to the heater through a centrifugal switch on the motor. This switch closes when the motor gets close to operating speed. It is there to ensure that the heater does not come on till there is air flow.

When you measure with Neutral as the reference you have no way of knowing if you are reading L1 or L2 voltage.
To see if the hater is getting the correct voltage you have to measure across it for 240 volts (L1 and L2 voltage)

So to recap.
If voltage (120) (L1) is there when the motor is Off then odds are there is a problem with the motor's centrifugal switch.
If voltage (120) (L2) is there only when the motor is running then odds are there is a problem with the timer contacts, the cycling thermostat or the high limit thermostat.

I hope I did not confuse you with the above!!

[COLOR="Blue"] Is this the correct way to check the voltage at the heating element?[/COLOR]
It is one way but it can confuse you.
If the centrifugal switch is bad you will see 120 volts on both sides (L1).
If the circuit through the thermostats is bad you will see 120 volts on both sides (L2).
If everything is OK you will see 120 on both sides L1 on one side and L2 on the other. If the heater is OK then it would heat up because there is 240 across the heating coil.

[COLOR="Blue"] Or does 120 volts simply pass thru the heating element to the other terminal?[/COLOR]
Yes.
Because Neutral is not part of the heater there is not a circuit path for the 120 so the coil does not drop any voltage.

FYI: Just in case you do not know how the 240 volts is achieved.
Your supply voltage is actually two 120 volt supplies with a common Neutral.
They are 180 degrees out of phase. So when one is at positive 120 volts, the other is at negative 120 volts. Measuring from one to the other then gives you the 240 volts.

You could check the continuity thru the timer and thermostats.
Use the most sensitive meter scale, short the meter leads together before starting so you can see if the meter has any zero offset.
Unplug the unit.
Set the timer to mid scale of a heating cycle.
Place one meter lead on BK (black) (L1) at the timer.
Now measure to the heater coil connectors.
One side should be 0 ohms.
The other should be 8 to 12 ohms (the heater resistance).

You are welcome

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.