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My icemaker stopped working completely on my Kitchenaid KSRG25 side-by-side refrigerator. No status light comes on at all, regardless of whether I close the door switch, toggle the container present switch, or turn the icemaker on or off - it's dead, Jim. This appears to have happened about the same time I had a crimp in the water line, and no water was being fed in. I've corrected the water line issue - can now get cold water again - but frustrated by no new ice. I've read online that there's a receiver board that may have gone bad - is there anything else that could cause this, like a blown fuse? If it's a bad receiver board, will I be able to order that, and replace it myself? (I'm reasonably handy, a computer guy.) My son just complained bitterly about the lack of ice - either I need to get this working again, or find someplace else to live... Sorry if I've missed any etiquette rules - first time poster!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 5,556
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Hi. Unplug the fridge for few minutes and plug it back. If that doesn't make any difference - replace the optic control kit Part number: AP3137510
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/20/2013(UTC) Posts: 4
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Well, I've got good news, and bad news.
Bad news: Still no ice.
Good news: At least the red LED is blinking now.
I had NO LED lighting under ANY circumstances prior to troubleshooting. The procedure said to replace the receiver board. I did so. Still no lights. Since my shipment also included the emitter board, I replaced that too. Voila! Lights started working "normally": Open door, blinks twice then pauses; depress switch at emitter, light goes on solid. Just for fun, I switched back to the original receiver. No lights again at all. I presume this means both the receiver and emitter were bad. But still no ice.
This all appeared to start when my water line was crimped, well before reaching the fridge. I fixed that, and I get water from the door dispenser, no problem. But, as far as I can tell, no water is being added to the icemaker tray. I feel in the tray itself, and there's bare metal. I don't hear any attempt at adding water - I used to hear this buzzing for a few seconds as it added water.
So: What now? I looked at the tray itself, and it isn't obvious to me how to remove it. I see how the water lines are routed at the back of the fridge, and could swap the lines to confirm that there's nothing blocking the feed there, but that seems a pretty minimal test. And, by the way, what in the world could have caused multiple failures? I can imagine that the LED in the receiver might have gone south ages ago, without affecting ice production. But I'm confused about how a bad emitter could have existed and still had ice made. I had ice about a month ago, it hasn't been broken very long!
I do find how much I took my icemaker for granted, and I hope I don't need to fall back to ice trays or something...
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 5,556
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Hi. There is the good chance that the water line to the icemaker is frozen. Switch around the power plugs at the water inlet valve and push the water lever at the dispenser. If the icemaker fills up - the line is not frozen and water valve is good. That make the icemaker the culprit. Simon.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/20/2013(UTC) Posts: 4
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Ice! Yay!
I tried to swap the power leads for the ice and water. (After unplugged, of course.) But they're keyed - they're different widths, so they couldn't be swapped. So I tried swapping the water lines. (After turning off the water, of course.) But the water dispenser line, for some reason, is bigger than the icemaker line, so they couldn't be swapped either. Fine. Plan B: Remove the icemaker and take a look!
I followed the instructions to remove the icemaker (after clearing stuff from the top of the freezer to get access), and hit a snag. The black rubber hose was completely stiff - trying to remove the icemaker would break it off. Which made me think: Aha! This is probably where the water line is frozen! So I got a blowdryer and blew hot air on the rubber hose. After a few minutes, the rubber hose was less solid. As I shifted it back and forth, there was a crack, and some ice fell down! I removed the icemaker, and blew more hot air right at the rubber hose. More ice fell! Finally, the rubber hose section seemed completely unblocked. I re-connected everything, and plugged the fridge back in. Within an hour or so, a small batch of ice has already been produced! I suspect that the water line was partially filled with air, and the next batch should be full - at least, that's my hope. In any event, progress has been made. Thank you for all your help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
The fact that the water line froze means that the water valve is bypassing small amounts of water into the water line.When it gets to the freezer it freezes. You should replace the water valve.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/20/2013(UTC) Posts: 4
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Simon, does this mean that you think the icemaker will stop working again? If it keeps working, do you think there's still some need to replace the valve? By the way, I think I mentioned there was a leak in my water line, and that my testing indicated that both the emitter board and the receiver board were bad. Do you think there's any single cause that would impact the emitter board, receiver board, and the valve? Thanks again for all your help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
If the valve will not cause any more problems - don't replace it, but keep an eye on it.I do not think there is a single cause for all this parts to go bad.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/15/2014(UTC) Posts: 2
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Hi Gene-
It sounds like you are the Ice Maker King!
Model: KSRG25FKSS03
Symptoms: Ice Maker does not fill with water.
I have verified that the water line is NOT frozen and not blocked. If I switch the ice maker and water connections, water will come out at ice maker fill tube when the "chilled water" flap is pushed.
LED results: If door is open: Blinks 2 times then off and repeats. If door is open with left side flap closed: Constant on/red If door is open with door shut trigger closed: No light
Thanks
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/18/2014(UTC) Posts: 1
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I am having the same issue as Dukep. Any advice.
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