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Karen.Smith  
#1 Posted : Monday, March 18, 2013 12:01:38 PM(UTC)
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Karen.Smith

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My Kenmore stopped at the end of the wash cycle and wouldn't drain. I moved the timer to check other wash and rinse cycles, and it made no difference. All the wash and rinse agitations work.

I tested the lid switch with the jumper wire, and the washer drained and spun. So I bought a new lid switch ($45), installed it, tested it before putting it all back together (it worked), ran a load of clothes, and same thing. It stopped at the end of the wash cycle and wouldn't drain.
Removed the clothes, used the jump wire again and the washer drained and spun.

There is absolutely no noise once it stops agitating or any abnormal noise while it is agitating.

The timer has been suggested by both a friend and the appliance parts store, but from reading other posts, I'm doubtful. It's $110 part, that can't be tested or returned.

I don't understand why it works with the jump wire and not without. With the jump wire both times, I allowed the washer to drain and spin. After I put the lid switch in, there was no water to drain out, but it did spin, so I put the case back on.

And now I'm back to where I started. Washer won't drain or spin. If I buy a timer and it doesn't work, I'll have wasted $155 that I could have spent on a used washer. I appreciate any help or advice. I saw in some other posts about schematics and there is one folded up inside the console that I could scan and post, if that would help. Thank you!
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fairbank56  
#2 Posted : Monday, March 18, 2013 12:33:05 PM(UTC)
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fairbank56

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Don't change the timer yet. It seems that the lid switch circuit is the problem. Make sure when you plug the wire harness connector into the lid switch connector on the cabinet that none of the pins are being pushed out of the connector. Check the actuator on the lid. Can you hear the lid switch "click" when closing the lid? Cut the plug off the old lid switch leaving a couple inches of wire. Strip the two black wires about 1/2" and twist the wire strands together, install a wire nut and tape it up with electrical tape. Use that to temporarily jump it out to do laundry until you figure out the problem. Keep your kids away from the washer if you do this!

Eric
Karen.Smith  
#3 Posted : Monday, March 18, 2013 3:14:29 PM(UTC)
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Karen.Smith

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Thank you for your reply. Yes I can hear the click when closing the lid. And I never imagined I would need the old switch and left it with the shop to recycle. I can call them and ask if they still have it since today is the first business day since I bought it. However, is there a difference between using the jump wire or twisting the 2 wires from the old switch? There are no kids to worry about :)

Update: I just called the shop and they have my old switch. Does the fact that I can hear the click mean something? Just wondering how to figure out the problem, or how long can I leave those wires nutted together?
fairbank56  
#4 Posted : Monday, March 18, 2013 3:50:43 PM(UTC)
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fairbank56

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Well, the click generally indicates that the switch is engaging. The problem with the jumper wire is that it is not likely making as good a connection as using the connector with the proper fitting pins in it. Full motor current goes through this switch in drain/spin cycle and if it's not a good solid connection, it can get hot and create it's own problems. I can't advocate leaving the switch jumped out because it's a safety issue so that's your call on what you want to do. If you leave it in for a few loads and the problem doesn't re-occur, at least you know that it is the problem and not just a coincidental intermittent problem with something else such as the timer.

Eric
Karen.Smith  
#5 Posted : Monday, March 18, 2013 3:59:47 PM(UTC)
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Karen.Smith

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I will pick up the old switch tomorrow and do as you suggested in your first reply to be able to use it temporarily. I won't use the jumper wire. I'm not clear on what you think could be the problem. A faulty new intermittent switch, or the timer?
fairbank56  
#6 Posted : Monday, March 18, 2013 5:09:57 PM(UTC)
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fairbank56

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The only real way to tell is to troubleshoot with a multimeter doing some tests on live line voltage which you have no experience at so best to just run it with the switch jumped out for a few loads. If it runs without any problem, reconnect the lid switch and try it. If it fails again, either the switch is bad or there is some misalignment with the switch and the actuator on the lid.

Eric
Karen.Smith  
#7 Posted : Monday, March 18, 2013 6:28:06 PM(UTC)
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Karen.Smith

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Got it, thanks! I removed the plug and looked at the pins. Nothing looked out of ordinary. Plugged it back in, and now it's working. Looking like intermittent switch issue? It's a reputable local appliance parts shop. I'll report back if I get any other symptoms to report. I'm going to monitor this wash load right now.
Thank you again very much!
Karen
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