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Parts for Maytag MFF2558VEB3 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

You shoe it as being less than a year old so I would get it repaired under warranty.

If for some reason you cannot do this try the following.


First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet. When the fans and compressor turn off, you are in defrost.

Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the control board needs replacing, re: it is not automatically programming a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 30 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK. When at room temperature it should be about 56,000 ohms.

If both the above are OK then odds are the control board is toast.

Hello Denman,
I had the same issue and used a youtube video to troubleshoot (freezer cold, fridge warm, constantly running) Model MFF2558VEB3. I defrosted the fridge and replaced the thermostat with a factory one yesterday. The fridge started back up and beside one short period the compressor and condenser fan have not shut off again. The fridge and freezer temperatures are in the okay range but there seems to be no reason why it won't shut off. Following your directions I put it in Forced Defrost Mode and it started making the muffled popping sounds it used to but THE COMPRESSOR AND CONDENSER FAN NEVER SHUT OFF. I started getting concerned when the compressor sounded like it was working harder and the line that is usually cold going into the fridge from the compressor was getting really warm from the heating coil.

Knowns:
-New thermostat should be good (I tested two others before I found this one that tested correctly before installing)

-Heater Coil/Element should be good (it tested as closed prior, and heard the "I'm getting hot in here against some ice" sounds in the forced defrost mode

Does this fall under the $200 "Control Board is Toast" outcome?

Any help is appreciated, I would rather not add more necessary wear and tear to this fridge.

Thanks,

After I did the forced defrost and became concerned I unplugged it to shut off the cycle, waited a few minutes and plugged it back in. After that it was cycling as it should (compressor on /compressor off most the time) since Friday. Both fans turn on as they should. If possible I will reserve pulling out the back panel again until I have to. This is a bottom freezer and a real pain to do.

Given this weird turn-around, do you think it may be fine, i.e. the FD reset something and it will work correctly now? -OR- Is this a symptom of a particular failing part that I don't know of?

I'm wanting to get this sorted out soon b/c I have a gas oven lighting issue I have to move on to.

Thanks for your help, it's nice to have a place to go for advice and DIY these projects.

So the fridge compressor and condenser fan were running as normal until about yesterday when I noticed they were not turning off (again). Today I had time to open the back panel in the freezer (pics attached). It is nowhere near as iced as the two previous times I pulled off the panel (but it has only been 4 days since it was last defrosted).

This time I unplugged it pulled the panel and took pics of coils, plugged it back in, did a short cycle Forced Defrost, the element heated up and compressor and fan shut off like it should (unlike last time) and now it is back to normal minus running the defrost cycle on its own.

(temp in fridge is always colder after doing this, than when it is constantly running)

To me it seems like something isn't triggering the defrost cycle. I can get the board on Amazon for ~$100, but want to make sure that is what I need to replace. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LQD...amp;coliid=I6MBJU11CKW7B

Thanks for all your advice. I appreciate it.

I would rather buy it from Appliance Parts Pro, but I'll have to go the other route so I can use the difference in cost for the oven parts I need.