To test for continuity on the older combination bimetal thermostat/ defrost temperature sensor, which is what I have on my 2003 Samsung RS2533SW/XAA model, do you have to submerge the thermostat in ice water to get a closed circuit reading? No one has bothered to answer my other question yet. I unplugged the refrigerator for 7 hours and when I took a reading for continuity on my combination bimetal thermostat/defrost temp. sensor connector, it showed an open circuit. When I plugged the refrig back in and took a reading two hours later, my multimeter beeped on the continuity setting, indicating a closed circuit although I couldn't get an ohm reading. It showed 0.L on the display readout. I have a very complex Fluke meter and I'm wondering if I have to reset the range to get an accurate ohms reading. Also, is the timer actually part of the main control board in this model and how do I check it. The timer controls what? Does it control how long the drain heater is on or how long the thermostat stays closed or something else? One other thing I need to clarify, since Samsung has had so many issues with its units icing up, the company has re-engineered or modified their heater components and evaporator systems several times over. My 2003 model has only one heater at the bottom of the evaporator assembly called a drain heater. I do not have an additional heater woven into the evaporator assembly. That design change was done after my 2003 model was manufactured. Also, my bimetal thermostat & defrost temperature sensor were wired into the same connector plug. Samsung has changed the design of those dual components after my 2003 model, as well. Now these are sold as two separate components each with its own connector plug, which I can't use since I have only one female connector plug for both. When I was researching the icing problem in my freezer, I checked my drain heater for continuity. I had to replace it. Then I checked the combi thermostat/ defrost sensor and had the two readings described above. Now I want to check the timer to see if it is defrosting the evaporator coils for a long enough time period. I'm not sure how long it's supposed to stay on or send a current but I was told by a technician that even if your thermostat, defrost sensor, and heater are working, the timer may not be keeping one of these components heating or closed long enough. Since I'm no certain which of these components is being controlled by the timer, I'd like to know the answer to that question, as stated before. So, how do I check the timer if it is integrated in the control board, as opposed to an actual timer that can be replaced? I see that there are pins to check readings on the control board but I do not know how to check the readings, although I have a key to read the PCB layout on the control board. This diagnosis may be beyond my scope.