So last week we took the kids to disneyland. Hooray!

Before we left my wife dumped the bucket of ice out of the freezer into the ice chest for the road.

When we got back there was no ice. I figured she jammed the arm behind the bucket when she pushed it back in, so i pulled it out, lifted the arm over the back (it has an extension on it due to over-making ice) and slid it back in.

Still no ice.

I checked the water outlet in the door, and get plenty of water there.

So I manually advanced the icemaker and stuck my finger into the tray to see if i could feel the water entering, and no water. Tried this a few times, and still nothing.

I got online and started reading threads on this site and I found two things to check..... continuity at the solenoid valve, which my dmm read continuity so i assume the solenoid is OK (but I don't know what the resistance of the valve should be) then I checked to make sure that I have 120V at the plug when the icemaker calls for water. Tried this twice and getting ~ 118-119... should be ok.

I tried blowing through the tube that goes up the back of the fridge to the icemaker and I can't blow through it. Should I be able to? Is there another valve inside of the freezer? That doesn't really make any sense to me.


Thanks in advance!

Figured out how to get access to the fill tube and the fill tube is frozen. Thawed it out and now have water going into icemaker. Ordering a new filter first. If that's not it, valves are next. Found all the info I needed on this site.

Any other suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks Gene ! :) :)

On the water valve, I notice the replacement valves aren't threaded "compression style" like the OEM valves. They look like a "push fit" connection (kind of like a sharkbite fitting for plumbing).

Are there any threaded ones, or are all the replacements the push fit style?

I have some of these that I use for work : https://www.google.com/shopping/...&ved=0CIsBEPMCMAg4Hg

They cut really fast and square on plastic tubing.

:cool:

Thanks again.