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My dryer timer will not advance in auto sense mode. Works fine in Timed dry. Checked my heating coil and it read 9 ohms across its terminals. I checked my timer terminals T and X and they were closed. Timer was replaced by a repairman who didn't know what he was doing (now out of business) so it is brand new. Checked the thermostats and they all read closed. I just replaced cycling thermostat, and it is still not advancing. The dryer does heat, but doesn't get hot to the touch on outside until clothes are completely dry. It takes about 1.5 hrs to dry a small load. Vent is clean, and I even took off the blower housing to make sure nothing was stopped up in between the blower and the lint tray. It was very clean. Please help! I refuse to pay someone to fix this!
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Here are your parts Parts for Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comDid you check to see if the heater was grounded? Unplug the unit and both wires at the heater. Then measure from each heater connector to ground (machine frame) both should be infinite ohms. Be sure to use bare metal or the ground connection at the terminal strip. |
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Yes, checked each terminal to the frame. Both showed infinite
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This is a weird one. So will have to do some grasping at straws. See the attachment for the wiring diagram. First I would check the wiring especially T/F/X connections. Do a timed dry high heat and watch the heating coil to see if it cycles on/off. Then do a high heat auto to see if it is the same. Do not do this with the door open as it will blow the thermal fuse. I am off to the lake for a few days so just in case you do not know how auto works. When the heater is on the timer does not advance. When the heater is turned off by the operating thermostat the timer motor gets power through the heating coil and advances. So for the timer to advance in auto the heater must shut off. The exhaust temperature should be up around 155 degrees F. Might pay to check this. The cycling thermostat should shut off at 155 and turn back on at 130 degrees F. It is very strange that you have long dry times which is usually an air flow problem but do not have high temperatures which is the usual symptom of low air flow. |
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I'm just going to throw this out there, the buzzer isn't going off either???
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Checked the vent temp and it's not getting over 130 per my meat thermometer. When I checked the heating coil, it looked on the shield between the two coils that it was really charred under half the coils but not the other half???
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Sorry for the delay in getting back to you but I was out of town for a few days.
I am not sure what is going on here.
Your temperature is low but I cannot think of a reason why it should be.
It is important to find out if the element is cycling or is it on all the time.
The symptoms do not point to a problem that I have seen before.
Low heat is usually a grounded element or a bad operating thermostat.
There is a possibility that the heater element is sagging when it gets hot and grounding out but usually it will weld itself to the heater case. |
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What is the safest way to see if it is cycling on and off?
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Take the back off so you can see the glow from the heating coil.
Do not run it with the door open as this stops the air flow over the heating coil. |
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