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Taylor8  
#1 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 3:25:17 PM(UTC)
Taylor8

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Electric dryer DWLR473ETOWW GE. The element looked like it was burnt into so I replaced that. No heat. I then went and checked all of the thermostats with an Ohm meter, no resistance. I don't know what else to check. (I am a novice btw)
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Simon / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Monday, January 14, 2013 8:45:17 AM(UTC)
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Hi.

By saying "no resistance" do you mean continuity?Did you take one wire off the thermostats when checking continuity?
Have you checked if there is 240VAC at the dryer?

Simon.
Taylor8  
#3 Posted : Monday, January 14, 2013 4:19:33 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Hi.

By saying "no resistance" do you mean continuity?Did you take one wire off the thermostats when checking continuity?
Have you checked if there is 240VAC at the dryer?

Simon.



Thanks simon. Yes the wires were taken off of the thermostats before checking continuity. There is 240VAC at the dryer.

We checked the timer. We unplugged the two black wires that has each end going into the back of the timer. There was no continuity on these two wires. They were on C and T. (others were A,B,C,X etc.) I dont have any of the schematics for the wires so I don't know if my logic is correct. Does this mean the timer is bad?
Simon / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, January 15, 2013 9:30:54 AM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

Unplug the dryer, set the timer to time dry, selector switch to high.
Timer contacts B-A,B-C,T-X should be closed.
Selector switch contacts 1-3, 1-4, 5-2 closed.
Motor switch contacts 1-2 closed.
There are total 5 thermostats (one for the motor) must be closed.

Here are the breakdown diagram and Drum, Heater Asem., Blower & Drive Assembly parts for GE DWLR473ET0WW - AppliancePartsPros.com

Post the results.

Simon.
Taylor8  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, January 15, 2013 11:08:03 AM(UTC)
Taylor8

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Thank you. I followed your directions. Checked the connections that you said on the timer, all of them are closed. The selector switch has closed connections and the motor switch has a closed connection. Any other ideas?
Simon / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, January 15, 2013 1:35:22 PM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

To check the motor switch M1-M2 continuity the dryer should run.
I'm sorry if it's sounds as I doubt your expertise, but there is nothing ells to check. Go again through the thermostats and make sure there is 240 VAC to the dryer connector block.

Simon.
Taylor8  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, January 16, 2013 7:52:56 AM(UTC)
Taylor8

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Not a bit thanks for helping. The motor is running, everything except the element. I have double checked the thermostats. I checked the 240 volts at the wall receptacle. I will check inside the dryer connections for 240 VAC.
Taylor8  
#8 Posted : Thursday, January 31, 2013 6:07:43 PM(UTC)
Taylor8

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I finally found the problem. The black wire coming off the motor had arced. The wire burnt into inside the wire harness. I pulled out the wire, it was green with corrosion. I guess with time the insulation may melt off. Do they sell the wire harnesses etc? I checked the parts link couldn't find any. Thanks.
Simon / APP Team  
#9 Posted : Friday, February 1, 2013 3:54:01 PM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

I'm afraid they don't offer the harness. Get the same wire size (preferably high temp.) and use the butt connector.

Simon.
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