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fhorta  
#1 Posted : Saturday, January 12, 2013 1:05:09 PM(UTC)
fhorta

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Posts: 39

Washer overfills at initial fill and on rare occassions at rinse cycle and only on all loads except small load. It.doesn't overfill at rinse cycle but on rare occassions. Cleaned the pressure switch tube and where it goes in, but actually seemed pretty clean already.

As the washer is filling and already water.level is where it needs to be if I press stop.button it sometimes stops the water, and sometimes the water keeps coming. So in other words as the washer proceeds to wash cycle water is still flowing . So when I see water still flowing after pressing off button I have to.turn the water off . When ready to rinse have to turn water back on. If water shuts off when I press off button, I just push start button again and water doesn't come out anymore. Until time to rinse. At rinse, it overflows again until I turn off the water.

Thought it might be the water valves in the washer??? Not sure though with this symptoms of sometimes water the water stops flowing when the off button is pressed..I figured if the valves are stuck open then water would comeout regardless..any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much.
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fairbank56  
#2 Posted : Saturday, January 12, 2013 4:26:03 PM(UTC)
fairbank56

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Remove the four torx screws (size T-20), from the top of the control panel and tilt panel forward on it's hinges. It may take a bit of force and working with screwdriver to get the connectors off the water valves. Then just put them back on lightly, enough to stay on but still easy to remove instead of tightly all the way on. This will allow you to easily disconnect them for testing purpose. Try a medium load setting and when the water is above the point it should be, remove the connectors. If water flow stops, the valves are ok. In this case, problem is either the pressure switch or the control unit. The pressure switch has two sets of contacts in it. They are both normally closed so you should have continuity between where the orange wire connects (common) and the blue wire connects as well as orange and white. When low water level is reached, the orange to white contact opens. At this point, the computer starts counting for medium and large level shutoff points. When super level is reached, the orange to blue contact opens.

When the water level reaches the correct level, does it start agitating while still filling. If it doesn't, then I would suspect the pressure switch but this doesn't explain why it works on low level setting all the time.

There is a tech sheet tucked inside the control panel which will tell you how to get into diagnostic mode. Basically, press and hold Whites button and start button for 3 seconds til all indicator lamps come on. Then press the button below Whites button to advance through the diffrent tests. Two presses will get you to error code check.

Could you provide a clear pic of the wiring diagram side of the tech sheet? I have the same model washer but mine is version 0 and yours is version 1. They have different tech sheets.

Eric
fhorta  
#3 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 1:56:10 AM(UTC)
fhorta

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Thanks for reply. Yes, when water reaches proper level washer.starts.agitating but continues to pour water so have to manually turn water off. Then have to keep an eye on it so when It's time to rinse turn the water back on and off again when reaches level. I would think It's the water valve unit but also doesn't explain why on.small.load it works fine?? I.will try your suggestions tomorrow and post pics of diagram. Thanks
fairbank56  
#4 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 8:17:08 AM(UTC)
fairbank56

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If you have a multimeter, you can just check for 120vac across the two terminals on each valve rather than unplugging them. There is enough exposed terminal to get the meter lead tips on them. If you have 120vac there after the washer starts agitating with water still coming in, then your control board is bad.

Eric
fhorta  
#5 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 9:30:00 AM(UTC)
fhorta

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I have a multimeter, or voltmeter? I'm.sorry I suck at this. I was able to disxonnnect water valve wires last night. I had meter set to where screen shows 0.L, or someting similar and when testing both connections it read 1.055 or close to that..did i have it on right settings? Or how do I know where to set meter? So many symbols and.settings..also, where the actual probes connect into.the meter there are three of them. How do I know where the red probe and black.one goes connected into?? So.sorry.
fairbank56  
#6 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 9:45:10 AM(UTC)
fairbank56

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Forget the meter, just remove the connectors from the valves, and re-connect them lightly. Just enough to hold yet very easy to remove. When the washer starts agitating while still filling, gently remove the connectors. If it continues filling, the valves are bad, if it stops, the control board is bad.

Eric
fhorta  
#7 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 11:46:26 AM(UTC)
fhorta

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Did as instructed. But noticed something I had not mentioned; the lid (top load) has to be opened or the machine won't fill. If I closed the lid, the water would stop pouring after about 2 seconds. So with lid open, When water reached proper level it continued to pour I closed the lid and washer began agitateing and water stopped pouring . When ran diagnostics I get error codes 4,5, and 6. Weird, huh..

dont see an upload option to.send you the picture of diagram. I can email it to you if you like. Don't.worry, I won't be buggin you with emailss . I don't know how to do this hyperlink stuff..thanks .
fairbank56  
#8 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 1:21:14 PM(UTC)
fairbank56

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Ok, maybe now we are getting somewhere. Seems like you are not getting hot water. This is why you don't have the problem during rinse cycle as rinse only uses cold water. See if it works normally if you select cold/cold for the wash cycle. The inlet valve has a temperature sensor that the control board uses to adjust the water temperature by cycling the hot and cold water valves. This is called ATC (automatic temerature control). ATC is turned off when the lid is open and only cold water comes in. This is to protect us dumb users from putting our hands into any hot water. When you open the lid, the cold water is coming in and when you close it, if you've selected other than cold/cold, it will initially close the cold water valve and open the hot water valve. You may have blockage in the screen where the hose connects, the hot water valve may be bad or you don't have hot water at the plumbing valve.

You should clear the error codes in diagnostic mode. In diagnostic mode, you can select hot water manually to help in troubleshooting this problem.

Eric
fhorta  
#9 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 2:17:51 PM(UTC)
fhorta

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Your right. Wife has the hot water turnedd off. she says the water leaks from.hose so just uses cold water for now until I get new hose. However, the overflow problem also.exists when rinsing. Just a.moment ago wife showed me that in medium load water was at the appropriate level and began to agitate but.continued to pour water. I then pulled the cold water wire from water valve and after 2 to 3 seconds water.stopped pouring and washer continued through normal.cycles. put.multimeter probes to.cold water connector and set multimeter to the horse shoe symbol looking thing and got reading of 1.018 give or take 1??

Whew! Hope this makes sense..thanks
fairbank56  
#10 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 3:25:06 PM(UTC)
fairbank56

Rank: Advanced Member

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Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806

Well, it's looking like a control board problem, but I'm not totally convinced. I would have to take some readings with the multimeter but I can't teach you how to use it or interpret the findings over this forum. If you get the board from appliancepartspros, you can return it if it doesn't solve the problem. If you go this route, you must transfer the plug that has the jumper wire from your board to the new one.

Eric
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