Remove the four torx screws (size T-20), from the top of the control panel and tilt panel forward on it's hinges. It may take a bit of force and working with screwdriver to get the connectors off the water valves. Then just put them back on lightly, enough to stay on but still easy to remove instead of tightly all the way on. This will allow you to easily disconnect them for testing purpose. Try a medium load setting and when the water is above the point it should be, remove the connectors. If water flow stops, the valves are ok. In this case, problem is either the pressure switch or the control unit. The pressure switch has two sets of contacts in it. They are both normally closed so you should have continuity between where the orange wire connects (common) and the blue wire connects as well as orange and white. When low water level is reached, the orange to white contact opens. At this point, the computer starts counting for medium and large level shutoff points. When super level is reached, the orange to blue contact opens.

When the water level reaches the correct level, does it start agitating while still filling. If it doesn't, then I would suspect the pressure switch but this doesn't explain why it works on low level setting all the time.

There is a tech sheet tucked inside the control panel which will tell you how to get into diagnostic mode. Basically, press and hold Whites button and start button for 3 seconds til all indicator lamps come on. Then press the button below Whites button to advance through the diffrent tests. Two presses will get you to error code check.

Could you provide a clear pic of the wiring diagram side of the tech sheet? I have the same model washer but mine is version 0 and yours is version 1. They have different tech sheets.

Eric

If you have a multimeter, you can just check for 120vac across the two terminals on each valve rather than unplugging them. There is enough exposed terminal to get the meter lead tips on them. If you have 120vac there after the washer starts agitating with water still coming in, then your control board is bad.

Eric

Forget the meter, just remove the connectors from the valves, and re-connect them lightly. Just enough to hold yet very easy to remove. When the washer starts agitating while still filling, gently remove the connectors. If it continues filling, the valves are bad, if it stops, the control board is bad.

Eric

Ok, maybe now we are getting somewhere. Seems like you are not getting hot water. This is why you don't have the problem during rinse cycle as rinse only uses cold water. See if it works normally if you select cold/cold for the wash cycle. The inlet valve has a temperature sensor that the control board uses to adjust the water temperature by cycling the hot and cold water valves. This is called ATC (automatic temerature control). ATC is turned off when the lid is open and only cold water comes in. This is to protect us dumb users from putting our hands into any hot water. When you open the lid, the cold water is coming in and when you close it, if you've selected other than cold/cold, it will initially close the cold water valve and open the hot water valve. You may have blockage in the screen where the hose connects, the hot water valve may be bad or you don't have hot water at the plumbing valve.

You should clear the error codes in diagnostic mode. In diagnostic mode, you can select hot water manually to help in troubleshooting this problem.

Eric

Well, it's looking like a control board problem, but I'm not totally convinced. I would have to take some readings with the multimeter but I can't teach you how to use it or interpret the findings over this forum. If you get the board from appliancepartspros, you can return it if it doesn't solve the problem. If you go this route, you must transfer the plug that has the jumper wire from your board to the new one.

Eric