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Recently this washer started making these harsh-clicking noises during the gentle wash. Not sure if the motor is having problems, but our lights on a separate circuit do dim when running the washer. Any tips how to test the motor? here's a video of the problem: GE Profile Washer - Gentle Cycle - YouTube
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The switch on the motor is bad. It is operated by a centrifugal mechanism in the motor. When low speed is selected as it is in gentle cycle, the motor first starts in high speed but as soon as it gets going the centrifugal mechanism switches it to low speed. What's happening is, the contacts for low speed are bad or the low speed motor winding is bad so the motor cuts off, slows down and then reconnects the high speed winding, the motor speed picks up again and the whole process keeps repeating. This motor is no longer available and has been replaced by a new clutchless type that does not have an integral switch. It comes with a new pigtail wiring harness, relay and capacitor that you must wire up. Pretty simple really, not as difficult as it may sound.
Eric
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Double post, this site is acting weird, keeps locking up on me
The replacement motor is part number WH49X10035 and is available for anywhere from $170 to $300, so search around. You can find the original motor, WH20X10009, used for less than $100 but I would go with the new motor. If your real handy, the switch can be removed from the motor and possibly repaired despite other pro's saying it can't be done. Iv'e done it.
Eric
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Eric, I'd be interested in trying to fix the old motor. Where is the motor switch located? 
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Your looking right at it. The plastic housing that the wiring harness plugs into is the switch. You need to pry up the 4 tabs at each corner of the back cover of the motor. Put the motor in a vise and with a helper and 4 screwdrivers or other prying device, pry up on the cover at each corner at the same time to get the cover off. Be careful as the cover goes into slots in the plastic switch housing. Once the cover is off, you can pull the switch housing away from the motor a little to be able to get it open. The motor wires are permanently attached to the switch. The wires are solid and stiff but can be maneuvered around a little. Take a close look at how the two halves of the switch housing are clipped together so you can figure out how to get it apart. Iv'e only done one and that was my own. You can take the plastic pivot arm out to get better access to the contacts for cleaning. I cleaned mine with a dremel tool with small wire brush attachment. Also had to repair one of the pivot points of the pivot arm which had partially melted. When you go to put it back together, you have two options. Just bend the cover tabs back down and squeeze them down flat with a vise or break them all off (front and back cover) and get some long bolts. I just squeezed the tabs back down and it's been fine. Once you get the switch apart, check continuity of the slow speed winding. If it's open, your done, you need another motor. Eric  
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