Check under the bottom for the fan motor to be running and the cob webs, dust, dirt, and pet hair, off the condenser coils. If the fan underneath has quit then the ice box won't get cold.If all dat is propah then you might have a defrost problem:
If the defrost is good then you may need to take a look at the compressor relay:
Your defrost system needs addressing.
Their are 3 parts to the system.
Timer
Heater
Terminator
Normal operation:
The timer will rotate around for about 8 hours or more and then it will kick into defrost for 21 minutes. The heater will come on and get very hot. Hot enough to cook anything in the freezer in 21 minutes including the kitchen. Thank goodness it has a Terminator thermostat which shuts down the heater when it reaches a temp which melts that frost. So what can go wrong? The timer motor can die or the timer can simply hang up in the defrost mode. The heater can blow out just like an ordinary light bulb over time. The terminator will actually swell up and fail also. If your model is not a self defroster then I would say your door seals are leaking more air than they should causing more ice buildup from humidity seeping into the ice box.
About the pictures:
The timer is a typical mechanically operated one with a feature to manually advance it with flat blade screwdriver.
The heater shown is prewired with quick plug and defrost terminator. Very easy to replace!
The terminator on most of these ice box's will only have continuity if it has been sitting in a freezer at 25°F for a cupla hours if you want to test it you must do it quickly. Its job is to open the minute it reach's 50°F. It kills that heater so the defrosting can carry on for 21 minutes without the possibility of causing a fire.
At the present time their are a whole lot of compressor relay problems going on. Check with your manufacturer to see if you qualify for a recall status. Pictured here is a defective relay. One like it or others simular designs can cause fires or compressor failures> If you have an older machine it could very well be the problem also.
failed relay
These relays mount on the compressor.
They allow multiple windings in the motor
to power up the unit and when it
gets to speed the relay drops out.
To check these you remove it from the compressor
Shake it, normally if it feels like a salt shaker is it bad.
If it makes no noise at all it is bad. You should feel the
sliding start switch inside the relay.
It is recommended to get the exact replacement relay
but if the machine is too old or comes from china or Iran then you cannot
always get the replacement parts. So what you do is get a hard start relay. No need to worry about a cap or overload. It has an overload, a capacitor, and a relay, all built into the package. Plus it has enough UMF to boost the older compressors back to life:
HS410 Hard start
This one comes with ready wired compressor lugs, a couple of blue wire nuts.
