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Common GE oven affliction: "Locked Door" light suddenly appeared. Door is not locked, no self-clean was started, lock feature is automatic lock, not a manual latch. I have: a) shut down power via circuit breaker; b) run clean cycle for 3 hours. All to no avail: Locked DOOR light has remained after each attempt. I even removed all of the wires from the lock motor, but after powering back up, "Locked" light flashing returns. So the oven is not usable. I am wondering if this is an issue with electronic control unit and not the more common explanation of a faulty lock motor. I will order a new ECU if so...........
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Locate the 8 pin connector at the control board and unplug it. Check for continuity between the wires connected to the pins 4 & 5 and 3 & 5. The normal readings with the door unlocked suppose to be: between the pins 4 & 5 - infinity, between the pins 3 & 5 - close to 0 Ohms. If the readings are correct, replace the control board. If the readings are incorrect, replace the door latch assembly. - The control board Part number: WB27K10160
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Thank You Gene. You Have Many Helpful Posts Over The Years. I Will Try That. Chuck
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Gene: one add'l comment: would it not be the ECU, since I have already removed the lock motor wires and yet the "Locked Door" light remains? Thank you, chuck mchugh
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Chuck,
It does not mean anything because the control board did not sense the latch at all after you removed the wires.
More likely the problem is a bad control board but I would like to confirm it.
Gene.
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Great, thank you. Again: u seem to belong in the Hall of Fame in this forum. Thank you again.....I will let you know the problem. regards, chuck
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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You are welcome Chuck. Thank you for your good words. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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Hi Gene: I replaced the lock motor and this fixed the lock light problem. You were right as usual. Unfortunately and surprisingly when I tested the burners they did not work: one burner fired and came on modestly; the other 3 fired on the same burner. So: turning all 4 burner switches creates a spark in the same burner only! chuck
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Originally Posted by: sar8303 ...one burner fired and came on modestly; the other 3 fired on the same burner... Hi Chuck, I'm glad to hear that one problem fixed. About the new problem I'm afraid I did not get it clear. Wherever you turn on any burner knob all burner igniters should spark. Can you explain more specifically what is going on please? Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Hi Gene: I brought in a local repair man yesterday: in lifting the stove to access the Lock motor, I broke 2 of the small pipes that carry gas. My bad, although the repair is trivial. Anyway: thru your help I learned that ovens have lock motors that often fail, that removing wires from the lock motor will not remove the flashing LOCK LIGHT. Thank you for the education. chuck
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