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Joined: 9/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 3
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Hi, i have a Kenmore dishwasher and the water is not starting. My wife has said to me just a couple weeks ago that it hasnt been cleaning very well. I am not sure if that is the right model # either, the inside label states model # 665. But the manual i have states model #'s 15801, 15805, 15808, 16801, 16805, 16808, 17701, 17705, 17708. I am just wondering WHY i do not see any of these #'s on the unit itself? And under the serial # it states #17805.
Anyway when i looked at the troubleshooting section it states to check the overfill protector and make sure it moves up and down. There might be something going on with this, i removed the whole plastic mushroom looking piece. When i replace it i can either just stick it on and it moves freely up and down and i can lift it right off. Or i can push it down hard and it kinda locks in. I do not know, but i was messing with it and still no water.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 3
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Nevermind, fixed it already!! I removed the valve and took it apart. There was quite a bit of sediment in it so i cleaned it out thoroughly. Got everything back together and wala!! This makes me happy! I didnt think i could fix it! Before this I called my buddy for some help and he immediately told me it was the solenoid. I'm glad he was wrong, but the thing is he had training in the Navy for this stuff. I never had any training and fixed it. What would you have to do to determine it was the solenoid? Get out the multimeter i presume?
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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[COLOR="Blue"]What would you have to do to determine it was the solenoid? Get out the multimeter i presume?[/COLOR] That is the easiest way. You measure across the solenoid/water valve when it should be opening. If you see 120 volts and there is still no water then: 1. Check that the water supply to the unit is OK. 2. Pull the water valve and check /clean the screen filter on the valve's input.
If both the above are OK replace the valve.
If thetre is no voltage across the valve then often it is a problem with the over fill float or switch.
You did not mention a filter screen in the valve's input side. If yours did not have one then odds are someone has removed it. I would replace the valve. The screen is there to keep crud out of the valve which could hold it open and cause a flood. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by: denman  [COLOR="Blue"]What would you have to do to determine it was the solenoid? Get out the multimeter i presume?[/COLOR] That is the easiest way. You measure across the solenoid/water valve when it should be opening. If you see 120 volts and there is still no water then: 1. Check that the water supply to the unit is OK. 2. Pull the water valve and check /clean the screen filter on the valve's input.
If both the above are OK replace the valve.
If thetre is no voltage across the valve then often it is a problem with the over fill float or switch.
You did not mention a filter screen in the valve's input side. If yours did not have one then odds are someone has removed it. I would replace the valve. The screen is there to keep crud out of the valve which could hold it open and cause a flood. there was a screen in the valve, there was alot of sediment
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