Hi All,
My regulator doesn't seem to have the "plastic pin under the cap" everyone mentions.
I can't find an exact service manual for my oven, so I don't know if that's ok or not.

Short version of my question: My regulator doesn't have any pin under the brass cap (see images below). Why not? Did the guy who (in 2002) switched it from Nat to LP throw it away?

Longer version:
My oven was switched to LP when I got it in 2002. This week I'm switching it *back* to Natural Gas. The new cooktop orifices are installed and working fine.

Converting the regulator has me stumped. The only service manual I can locate covers models JGBP35__A, and mine is JGBP35__D (specifically JGBP35DED4BB). So maybe my regulator was an odd model that doesn't have the pin under the brass cap?

The "__A" manual I mentioned says that under the regulator I'll see a plastic pin that I flip over. Sounds easy. But I open mine up and only see a spring. There is no pin under my brass cap...just a spring! (see picture#2 below)

Did the guy converting me to LP in 2002 throw my pin out and my oven worked by sheer luck? If I need the pin, must I buy an entire regulator just to get the pin?

Or maybe this regulator is unique and switches between LP and Natural on it's own? I doubt it... I started the oven to find out. The glow plugs lit up nicely, I heard a few clicks from the sparkers, but got no ignition. The smell of gas became strong so I shut it off and vented the room.

I have no earthly clue what to do to convert this regulator back to Natural Gas. There's nothing under the brass cap but a spring, probably there to put pressure on an internal diaphragm.












Maxitrol CV47CLI with brass cap. (I will vacuum the dust and cobwebs)



Under the cap...just a spring. No pin to apply any pressure to the spring. The cap barely reaches the spring, but maybe that's just because the gas is shut off and the diaphragm isn't pushing up.