Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/29/2012(UTC)
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Hello: I hope someone can help me. For a GE Profile gas oven/range, model JGSP31GER3WG, purchased new in 1993. The oven does not get hot enough. Example: set temp for 450 and it only gets to about 275 (measured on oven thermometer inside oven), but digital display shows that it reached 450 and beeps to signal it has reached the set temperature. Igniter glows and lights the flame for short periods then stops. Checked the oven sensor (temp sensor), read 1125 ohms at 78 degrees room temp, so is OK I think.Ignitor seems to be working OK, I had just replaced it about a year ago. I measured the ohms on the sensor again today, this time with 2 different multimeters. One read 1120 ohms, the other was 1106 ohms. Both readings at room temp in my kitchen which is 78 degrees. I know this is a little above the specified 1000-1100 range but I am thinking the sensor is still good? Here is some more info that might help. I started the oven from dead cold today to Bake @ 350, with the DOOR WIDE OPEN and bottom pan and deflector removed so I could observe the ignitor and flame. The ignitor glowed and lit the flame within about 30-45 seconds, as normal. The digital temp display then marched up rapidly from 125 to 350, in about 3-4 minutes, at which time it beeped signaling it had reached 350. But the oven was clearly NOT at 350 with the door wide open, not even close. Also the oven thermometer inside had barely moved (again, the door was wide open). At this time I closed the door and observed through the window. The ignitor and flame would light every few minutes and run for a minute or two and then go out, which seems normal. But the temp display still read 350 when it clearly was not 350. The oven thermometer was only at about 150. Given these symptoms and the (normal I think) ohms reading on the temp sensor, in your opinion what do you think the problem is? Do you think it is the clock/control (ERC) unit? Are these common symptoms for a control unit that is bad? If control unit is suspected, is there a way to check it with a multimeter? Or make a repair? Any help much appreciated!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
Check the oven sensor at the control board plug and if it's the same resistance as before - replace the control board. You must use the old overlay.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/29/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Many thanks Simon. Can you briefly describe how I get to the control unit. Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
Looks like 2 screws on the top in the corners and 4 screws from under the panel. Then you should be able to remove the panel.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/29/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3
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OK. Got to the board, you also have to remove the entire glass top under the 4 burners to access two more screws on either side that hold the front control panel on.
Unfortunately the heads of all the small screws that hold the 4 "bowls" on the burners snapped off when removing them (3 screws per bowl) so now I have no way to secure the bowls to the burners below...they will just have to lay on the glass, loose. The screws were apparently weakend after 19 years of getting hot.
Anyway, the resistance (ohms) of the temp sensor was the same at the plug. So it looks like the board has indeed gone bad.
We now have to decide if we want to try and fix it with a rebuilt board, or just get a new oven. I think the wife is leaning towards a new one, but we'll see.
Anyway, thanks again for all your help.
BeachbumNJ
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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