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tdubbz02  
#1 Posted : Monday, September 21, 2009 5:14:19 PM(UTC)
tdubbz02

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Joined: 12/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

Hello, I am replacing the thermal cutoff fuse and high limit thermostat kit (Pt. #279769) and my replacement parts differ slightly from the original, namely the cutoff fuse. There are two wires a Red/white stripe and solid red that connect to the fuse but I am unsure which of these go to which connector on the new fuse. On the old fuse the connectors where in a left/right setup with the red/white wire on the left connector and red on the left. The new fuse the connectors are in a top/bottom setup with no markings. Anyone have an idea as to where the wires hookup to the new fuse, or does it matter??? Any replies greatly appreciated.
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SublimeMasterJW  
#2 Posted : Monday, September 21, 2009 5:51:23 PM(UTC)
SublimeMasterJW

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/6/2008(UTC)
Posts: 724

Maybe these photos will help:

UserPostedImage

1. Hi Limit (small limit upper right hand side of this pic)

the most frequent problem if dryer RUNS but no heat.

2. Heater assembly. 7. Control thermostat(s).

5. Fuse(350F), if blown(open) the dryer will NOT run. 4. Heater element.


Lets look closer at that heater assembly:

UserPostedImage

The small limit on the top(300F) will blow if the duct is stopped up

The bottom fuse is its cousin(250F), they are partners in crime.

When one fails both are bad and both come in a kit. The dryer

will however run even if these guys are open(bad).

UserPostedImage

Clogged outside vent


You will need to bust the dryer open to get to all of the lint,

inspect the rollers and belt. Start by yanking out the filter.

UserPostedImage

Remove those 2 phillips screws in the top of the filter housing so you can pop the top.

UserPostedImage

Get the screws out that hold the front panel on. Important: lift UP the front panel to release the lower clips to prevent them from breaking! Get the drum out. Oil the rollers and idler assembly,

Vacuum it all out real good. Oil the Idler using non-flammable, high temperature

resistance, zoomspout oil. (ace hardware $3).


Here is a good shot of how the belt ought to look all propah like:

UserPostedImage

As you can see the belt goes between the idler . Insert the idler into the floor and yank

upwards, loop the belt through the idler and over the motor pully. This creates tension.

NOTE: If you have a friend hold the drum up for you while you install the belt it is much

easier. Be sure the belt is not twisted or when you start the dryer the belt will be cut in two.



Here is a DOT dryer manual that features moisture sensing control.:







tdubbz02  
#3 Posted : Monday, September 21, 2009 6:10:49 PM(UTC)
tdubbz02

Rank: Member

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Posts: 4

Thanks for the pics and the response. I already have the parts I need and am in the process of installing them. My issue is my replacement thermal cutoff fuse differs slightly from the original in that its connectors are in an top/bottom fashion and the original are in a left/right setup. My question is in regards to the connecting wires, on the original fuse a red/white stripe wire connected to the left connector and a solid red wire to the right connector, now which of these wires should connect to the top connector and which to the bottom connector on the new fuse, or does it matter?
SublimeMasterJW  
#4 Posted : Monday, September 21, 2009 6:33:46 PM(UTC)
SublimeMasterJW

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Joined: 5/6/2008(UTC)
Posts: 724

All you is doing is getting continuity out the limit. You cannot connect it backward but you want to make sure it does not ground to the frame or heat chamber. Sometimes you need the exact replacement to make it connect properly.
tdubbz02  
#5 Posted : Monday, September 21, 2009 6:55:38 PM(UTC)
tdubbz02

Rank: Member

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Joined: 12/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

Ok, here is a pic of the original thermal cutoff and the replacement that came with the kit. The original on the left as a left/right connector setup and the replacement a top/bottom setup. They are pictured exactly how the bolt to the dryer. The original had a red/white stripe wire connected to the left connect post and a solid red wire on the right connect post. My question is which of these wires connect to the top connect post and which connect to the bottom post of the new replacement? Or if it matters?

UserPostedImage
ApplianceJunk  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, September 22, 2009 3:00:39 AM(UTC)
ApplianceJunk

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Posts: 2,277

Quote:
Or if it matters?


It does not matter.
SublimeMasterJW  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, September 22, 2009 7:38:11 AM(UTC)
SublimeMasterJW

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/6/2008(UTC)
Posts: 724

It does not matter. If that one keeps going out it is a sign of a stopped up vent
UserPostedImage

Clogged outside vent
tdubbz02  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, September 22, 2009 12:26:43 PM(UTC)
tdubbz02

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

Thank you so much for the help SublimeMasterJW and ApplianceJunk! So far so good the dryer is heating again, thanks again, much appreciated!
andrew08  
#9 Posted : Monday, March 11, 2019 8:29:14 AM(UTC)
andrew08

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/11/2019(UTC)
Posts: 0
Man
India
Location: Chennai

Can someone please tell me that how to install a thermal cutoff fuse kit in an electric dryer?
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