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vanc  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, June 26, 2012 8:46:30 AM(UTC)
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vanc

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I am troubleshooting a dead GE Dryer DDE6500GBL. I have used a Volt Meter to check the resistance on the thermostats, thermal fuse, and start switch and they are all good. I believe I've narrowed it to the timer. I have seen a video on bypassing contacts B and C on a GE timer (mine is model# 113D5510G004) and I got my motor to start. I want to check the heater function but bypassing contacts B and C doesn't get power to the heater coils. I'm not sure which contacts to short across on this timer to get current to the heater coils. It has contacts labeled A, B, C, H, X and T. From the wiring diagram, it looks like shorting A (yellow) to B (red) may do it.

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Simon / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, June 26, 2012 10:29:51 AM(UTC)
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Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

Did you check the door switch also?
The heating element is getting 120v from the timer and another 120v through the motor switch when it's running.
So to test the heater you need the motor running.
Unfortunately I can't find the wiring diagram for this model number.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric DDE6500GBL Electric dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Thank you. Post the results.

Simon.
vanc  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, June 26, 2012 11:55:03 AM(UTC)
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vanc

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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Hi.

Did you check the door switch also?
The heating element is getting 120v from the timer and another 120v through the motor switch when it's running.
So to test the heater you need the motor running.
Unfortunately I can't find the wiring diagram for this model number.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric DDE6500GBL Electric dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Thank you. Post the results.

Simon.



Simon,

Yes, I checked the dryer door switch and it goes to 0 Ohms when depressed so it's good. As to the wiring diagram, it does show the wire from contact A from the timer going to the hi limit thermostat, which I presume goes to the heater so that's why I'm thinking connecting A and B.
Simon / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, June 26, 2012 1:24:05 PM(UTC)
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Simon / APP Team

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Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556

Hi.

Without the diagram I'm not much of a help to you on this question, unless you can send me the picture of the wiring diagram.


Simon.
vanc  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, June 26, 2012 3:51:20 PM(UTC)
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vanc

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Thanks for your help, Simon.
I'm attaching 2 jpgs of the wiring diagram.

Thanks,
Van
vanc attached the following image(s):
CCF06262012_0000.jpg
CCF06262012_0001.jpg
Simon / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, June 26, 2012 11:25:42 PM(UTC)
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Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

Looks like jumping A to B and B to C should start the dryer and turn on the heater.

Do not leave the jumpers on and use the dryer.

Simon.
vanc  
#7 Posted : Thursday, June 28, 2012 4:29:12 AM(UTC)
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vanc

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Joined: 6/26/2012(UTC)
Posts: 6

Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Hi.

Looks like jumping A to B and B to C should start the dryer and turn on the heater.

Do not leave the jumpers on and use the dryer.

Simon.



Simon, Thanks for your help troubleshooting this. I jumped A to B and B to C and got the motor and heater coils to work so it's definitely the timer. I never noticed before but the heater coil was glowing orange it was so hot. By bypassing the contacts, is it getting more current than it normally would? Is that why it's dangerous if you ran dryer like this because it could damage the heating coil if you left it connected more than a few seconds or is it because we're bypassing all the safety thermostats?

Van
Simon / APP Team  
#8 Posted : Thursday, June 28, 2012 8:43:18 AM(UTC)
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Simon / APP Team

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Posts: 5,556

It is the safety issue.

Simon.
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