Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
klingenfelter  
#1 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2009 10:59:44 AM(UTC)
klingenfelter

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14

While putting the stove back together to use the burners (see F1 -7 problem in earlier post) another problem occurred. When I turn the breaker back on it snapped off and I heard a pop from the stove. The Red Wire slip connector to the front right burner control had blown off the switch and there was an obvious short that caused the slip connector to burn. The burners were not installed and the control was off. I ohmed the burner controller black hot to red hot and it was open. I ohmed the whole stove and it read about 4k ohms. If I read the whole stove with the control board disconnected it reads open. I put a fuzed clip lead from the red wire slip connector to its proper terminal on the burner controler, and when I turn on the breaker and it blows the fuze. An open circuit appears to short hot to hot inside the switch when power is turned on. I think there are SCR controls in the these burner controls and maybe they are breaking down when under high voltage. If I leave this slip connector disconnected from its controller and taped off all works well except the front outside burner that this controller operates obviously won't work. Has anyone run into this problem before. I seems I'll need to replace the burner controller, but the problem seems a bit confusing

Thanks for your help

Keith
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
glen65  
#2 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2009 11:04:52 AM(UTC)
glen65

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/31/2008(UTC)
Posts: 322

We will need the full model number of your range.
klingenfelter  
#3 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2009 11:15:21 AM(UTC)
klingenfelter

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14

Its a Jenn Air JES9860AAS

glen65  
#4 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2009 11:26:45 AM(UTC)
glen65

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/31/2008(UTC)
Posts: 322

Which burners work and which ones don't? Is the oven ok?
klingenfelter  
#5 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2009 11:43:04 AM(UTC)
klingenfelter

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14

No see my post on F1 -7 problem. The burner problem popped up when putting the thing back together when diagnosing the F1 -7 problem.

Yeah I know maybe I screwed something up but I don't think so. I'm pretty knowledgable and am an electronic engineer (I know so what). Anyway I have the F1 -7 problem and was metering about and looking. When i put it back together I got the burner short. Al the burners work except the one I disconnected (taped the red wire off). If I try to connect it to its proper terminal it shorts to black hot. Yet when I ohm it with my VOM it (across the burner control and the full stove) it reads open circuit. Strange.

Keith
glen65  
#6 Posted : Sunday, September 13, 2009 12:28:01 PM(UTC)
glen65

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/31/2008(UTC)
Posts: 322

Originally Posted by: klingenfelter Go to Quoted Post
No see my post on F1 -7 problem. The burner problem popped up when putting the thing back together when diagnosing the F1 -7 problem.

Ok..but please keep the remainder of your posts to one thread.
It will make things easier for people here to sort out.

Quote:
Yeah I know maybe I screwed something up but I don't think so.
Dont know yet.

Quote:
I'm pretty knowledgable and am an electronic engineer (I know so what).
That's good, that knowledge could come in handy here.

Quote:
Anyway I have the F1 -7 problem and was metering about and looking. When i put it back together I got the burner short. Al the burners work except the one I disconnected (taped the red wire off). If I try to connect it to its proper terminal it shorts to black hot. Yet when I ohm it with my VOM it (across the burner control and the full stove) it reads open circuit. Strange.

Keith
Lets take these things one at a time, first the burner short.
If you get a short after hooking the main source wires to
the L1 and L2 (L for Line) terminals on the switch you are having trouble with then the switch itself is shorted and will need replaced.

Next, I checked the code list and the F1 and F7 codes are
both bad keypad codes. You would need to replace the electronic
keypad.
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.