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Refrigerator repair question
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Model: GTS22KBMBRWW Brand: GE Age: 5 - 10 years
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bthlonewolf  
#11 Posted : Monday, September 14, 2009 6:00:46 AM(UTC)
bthlonewolf

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Richappy -- thanks! Could I ask you to clarify?

I see the 3 pin connector on the motherboard (which you can see in the top pict above, bottom right), and 2 of those are marked Line and Compressor. The middle one is marked DEFR (defrost?). Should I jumper these two Line/Compressor? Do I then leave the power connector on the board unplugged or do I plug it back in?

I considered making a hookup directly to the 3 pins on the compressor, but I'm up for whichever is easier.
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richappy  
#12 Posted : Monday, September 14, 2009 8:33:54 AM(UTC)
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Just leave the power connector unplugged, then plug in the fridg. You can monitor the compresser current through this jumper.
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bthlonewolf  
#13 Posted : Monday, September 14, 2009 2:55:37 PM(UTC)
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OK -- going to try this when I get home later but I looked at it briefly on my way past -- the way the connector is (some kind of molex looking connector) is very tight ... I guess I can remove the connectors from the plastic housing and jumper there, not sure how else I can get a good connection... I'll post back later. Thx!
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bthlonewolf  
#14 Posted : Tuesday, September 15, 2009 7:32:49 AM(UTC)
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I jumped the comp/line pins, plugged it in, and the compressor started right up, no out of the ordinary sounds or anything.

It's a good bet that the problem is just with the board -- I wish I could desolder and put in a new relay, but the board looks quite toasted in that section and doesn't look salvageable. I'll post back what happens w/ the board...
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marz7142  
#15 Posted : Thursday, October 13, 2011 3:43:33 AM(UTC)
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I have the same model, same problem, same burnt relay on solder side of motherboard. What was the problem??? thanx.
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richappy  
#16 Posted : Thursday, October 13, 2011 7:46:28 AM(UTC)
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The original problem, the manufacturer did not wave solder the board properly and the thin solder at the power relay acted as a fuse and blew open. Usually, re-soldering will fix it, no relay replacement necessary.
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