Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Great information on this site - but I'm unable to find solution... help:
A few days ago the refrigerator/FF side of my unit rose to 60 degrees and has stayed there. The freezer section is running as cold as always.
I have done the following so far:
- Removed nearly all items from unit to avoid blocking vents
- evaporator fan: running, no damage or visible wear
- compressor fan: running, no damage or visible wear
- compressor humming, fairly hot to touch
- underside of unit / coils - clean of any debris
- back of freezer NO frost - all clean
- both doors seal well when closed
- lights turn off when pressing the door switches
- cold air flowing up from evaporator fan, through channel on back of freezer to top where opening is to Damper/FF side - just doesn't seem to go through to the other side.
The Damper does not seem to be moving, so I opened it manually and it remains open now FULL.
There is NO airflow coming into the refrigerator side from the freezer through the opening at the Damper. I checked with Freezer open/closed it made no difference.
The air vent midway down the left panel of the refrigerator has no visible blockage. I removed the louvers and see nothing in the cavity. I am not sure where this cavity leads - or how to test the flow through that channel.
The small vent on lower left panel of refrigerator side has some cold air coming through when the slide is full open.
While running the unit with both doors open (in 70 degree garage) I can hear the compressor start (and the lights dim momentarily) - then shuts off within 10 seconds. After about a minute, it tries again... repeats.
I have both temperature controls set to the middle "5" spot.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
|
Hi.
Unplug the fridge, open the doors and defrost it for 24hrs.Then turn it on and check then if there is an airflow.
Post the results.
Simon.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
You either have a bad compressor, or a failed start device.First, make a diagram where the wires go on the start device, then Pull off the start device on the side of the compressor, if it rattles when you shake it, it's bad. Part #AP3873993
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Relay does not rattle
Overload (black/white) rattles a little, and is in tact
Checked continuity on three compressor terminals, no short between terminals and ground.
Also - if it was the compressor/relay/overload - would the freezer still work normally like it is?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
You said at the end of your msg. it was hard starting. Was that temporary? If so, just remove the freezer back panel and defrost the coils with a hair dryer if the coils are totally frosted over. Most probable problem is a blown defrost thermostat, just look at it. if bulged, it's bad.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
That only seems to occur when the doors are open, and it has had time to get really warm (due to ambient air in garage). Once the doors are closed and the freezer freezes again, the compressor doesn't cycle like that.
No visible frost anywhere. As noted in my original post, I removed the freezer back panel and the coils in there were shiny metal, no frost. The fan is running (always) in there also. The compressor fan is running also.
I was starting to think thermister/temp controls for the refrigerator side - BUT - since i have the Damper manually opened full and still no cold air coming into fresh food side - could it still be thermister/temp control? If evaporator fan is running - what could the temp controls change?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
If the compressor is running/vibrating, the freezer coils should completely frosted over with a light frost. At this time, measure the freezer temperature and post.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Thanks, have had the freezer control set to 9 (max) for a couple hours.
Temp in freezer = -20
Temp in refrigerator = 51
And yes, there is a light frost covering the freezer coils.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
Freezer temperature way too cold, suspect a defrost issue, although it might be intermittant. When the freezer is -20, remove the back freezer panel and check frost pattern.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
I removed the back panel, and the freezer coils are covered evenly with a light white frost. This really makes no sense... sooo cold in freezer, but no air to Fridge. Still have the Damper removed completely and no air coming through.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
