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chappy801  
#1 Posted : Thursday, May 31, 2012 6:42:47 PM(UTC)
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chappy801

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My gas range has been working great for the past few years. All of the sudden the gas oven stopped working. The 4 burners on the stove top still work great, but the oven doesn't ignite at all. When I have it on "BAKE" it doesn't do anything. When I set it to "BROIL" I hear two clicks, but nothing ignites and I don't hear any gas at all (or smell anything). I believe they use separate igniters, so I'm thinking it may be something else...

Anyone have any ideas on what it could be?

Thanks!

-Brad

Model# SF368LEPB 3
Serial# RT0510790
(Let me know if there is any more information needed)
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thegila  
#2 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:21:01 AM(UTC)
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thegila

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my mother in law is having the same problem with the same model number oven. did you ever get a solution?
Appliance Ninja  
#3 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 10:00:39 AM(UTC)
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Appliance Ninja

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If neither the bake or broil are working, the valve is most likely to have failed and is easily tested. The gas valve is located behind the drawer. Once the drawer is removed, you will see it in the very back. There are three wires on that valve. Remove those wires and then test between the middle terminal on the valve to each of the outer terminals, looking for around 216 ohms of resistance. If either is far off, the valve is faulty and will need to be replaced. The correct valve for this model is available below.

Whirlpool W10293048 Valve-Gas - AppliancePartsPros.com
thegila  
#4 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 12:49:20 PM(UTC)
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thegila

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thanks-- i will check it out.



Originally Posted by: Appliance Ninja Go to Quoted Post
If neither the bake or broil are working, the valve is most likely to have failed and is easily tested. The gas valve is located behind the drawer. Once the drawer is removed, you will see it in the very back. There are three wires on that valve. Remove those wires and then test between the middle terminal on the valve to each of the outer terminals, looking for around 216 ohms of resistance. If either is far off, the valve is faulty and will need to be replaced. The correct valve for this model is available below.

Whirlpool W10293048 Valve-Gas - AppliancePartsPros.com
Appliance Ninja  
#5 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 12:57:53 PM(UTC)
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Appliance Ninja

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You are very welcome. Please let me know if you have questions about the results!
thegila  
#6 Posted : Sunday, November 24, 2013 10:09:27 AM(UTC)
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thegila

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i got 198 ohms on one coil and more than 2 mega ohms on the other. guess i need a new valve, huh?
Appliance Ninja  
#7 Posted : Sunday, November 24, 2013 10:16:42 AM(UTC)
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Appliance Ninja

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That would be correct, nice work! That link above is to the correct one for your model.
thegila  
#8 Posted : Monday, November 25, 2013 5:15:17 AM(UTC)
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thegila

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thanks again-- just to be clear, i didn't see either igniter glowing. shouldn't they have been glowing before calling for gas? or does a bad valve override the igniters? the broiler clicks a couple of times, but i hear nothing from the oven.
Appliance Ninja  
#9 Posted : Monday, November 25, 2013 6:32:07 AM(UTC)
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Appliance Ninja

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The igniters you have only spark to ignite the gas, they don't glow. If the spark board "sees" that one of the coils in the vale is bad, no matter which one, it will not allow the unit to attempt ignition. You may get the igniters to spark, but the coils will not be energized to open. Once you replace that valve, your oven will work.
davidsmartin  
#10 Posted : Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:30:39 PM(UTC)
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davidsmartin

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Did this solve your problem?

Twice I have had the same problem, with neither the oven nor the broiler lighting. But the next day both worked fine. Is it likely my valve is border-line?
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