[FONT=&quot]Kenmore model 106.53552201

I just replaced the Ice Maker (AP3182733). Still no ice.

I checked the water inlet tube, no apparent ice (unless the ice is more than 5-6" up in the tube).

Optics blinks twice and repeats when door open. Light On solid with left flapper closed. No light at all when the flapper and door switch is closed.

I just checked voltage across L & N..... weird, I get like 70 Volts.

I jumpered H& T and get nothing.

Help.

Greg
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I'll check the water inlet value. I assume that value is in the bottom rear.

Still even if the test leads might not be making good connections, I don't understand why the motor wasn't turning with I jumpered H & T

Edited and added:
I checked the water inlet valve for continuity. Both solenoids have good continuity. Plus, I disconnected the water line to the ice maker and blew threw it... It was clear.

As for disconnecting the wiring harness at the ice maker to check for 120V AC. How would I know which leads to check across?

Greg

By the way, water thru the door is working fine.

Oh, I just thought of something. As I am checking the voltage or attempting to jumper from H & T to make the motor run, do I have to close the left optic flapper? Is that optic switch like an inter-lock switch to prevent the Ice Maker from running?

The Refrigerator and Freezer are cooling and freezing just fine.

I've done a couple of additional tests..
1. I tested the Freezer with a digital thermometer. It was -3F.

2. I swapped the connector leads on the dual water inlet value. (Water thru the door has been working fine and I confirmed 120V at door valve wiring harness when door water switch is triggered. ). The water inlet valve connectors are different sizes. So, I created a jumper from the IM inlet valve to the Door inlet valve connectors. When I trigger the Door switch, I DO NOT get water out of the IM Water tube.

3. I checked the Voltage at the IM across L & N. As posted above, I get 65V..... Yes, 65V!!! I disconnected the IM Wiring harness and checked at the connector coming from the inner wall of the freezer. Again, I get 65V.
I double-checked my multi-meter on a house receptacle and I get 115V. What the heck is going on here with the 65V??

4. Finally, I went back and checked the IM Inlet valve solenoid and found it Open.... I swore I checked it before and it was Closed.... So, the IM Inlet water valve is dead... I'll replace the inlet dual valve and see if that resolves things.

So did the voltage change from 70 after you replace valve?