Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/3/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Had a repairman out today and $90.00 later still not sure what my problem is. The repair shop was an authorized fridgidaire repair shop however my repairman had never seen the type of relay switch that was on my compressor and could not figure out how to unplug it. He did check that power was going to the switch but could not determine anything else because he could not unhook it to ohm test it. His diagnosis was is was a bad compressor, no ohm check was run on the compressor either. The proplem is the compressor is not cycling on, I unplugged the relay switch myself after the repairman left, my question is how do i confirm if the switch is good or bad so I can be sure what I am dealing with before buying a new compressor, this is a expensive refridgerator so I would like to fix if possible.
I would appreciate any help or suggestions anyone could offer!
Thanks:confused:
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi. You would need to have a multimeter to run the test. Take the wires off the start relay and with the unit running see if you have 120v between them.( Only if you feel OK to do the "life" test). If there is 120v the next thing - continuity check of the compressor windings. With unit unplugged check for continuity between 3 prongs at the compressor. All 3 should show resistance. Next leave one test lead at the compressor's prong and touch any copper tube with another one. Should read no continuity. If the compressor passed the test, you need to replace the start relay/overload. The compressor starting devise Part number: AP3790738
The manufacturer recommend to use the connecting wire Part number: AP4303619
Thank you. Post the results. Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/3/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Thanks Simon, I will run tests and reply with results! Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team  Hi. You would need to have a multimeter to run the test. Take the wires off the start relay and with the unit running see if you have 120v between them.( Only if you feel OK to do the "life" test). If there is 120v the next thing - continuity check of the compressor windings. With unit unplugged check for continuity between 3 prongs at the compressor. All 3 should show resistance. Next leave one test lead at the compressor's prong and touch any copper tube with another one. Should read no continuity. If the compressor passed the test, you need to replace the start relay/overload. The compressor starting devise Part number: AP3790738
The manufacturer recommend to use the connecting wire Part number: AP4303619
Thank you. Post the results. Simon.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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Is the compressor warm,hot, cold, or vibrating?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/3/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by: richappy Is the compressor warm,hot, cold, or vibrating? Hello, Once plugged in the compressor gets hot
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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If the old start device rattles when shaken, it's bad. If not, measure between either input pin the fridg connector plugs into and one of the side by side output pins that plug into the compressor. If you get between 5 and 10 ohms, your start device is good, and you have a hard starting compressor.
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